Small Dry Legumes

Introduction

I am describing the small dry legumes, including lentils, as opposed to small phaseolus beans (including black turtle beans). T

These legumes are commonly sold as dry grain; some canned lentils are available. Some were sold in bulk food stores and as bulk foods in grocery stores. The availability of bulk products was affected in 2020 by the Covid-19 epidemic.

Lentils

Lentils (Lens culinaris and related species) have several varieties which look different and cook differently. Brown lentils cook (get soft in boiling or simmering temperature water) faster. Green lentils take longer and taste different. Some of the differences in cooking time are shortened or can be ignored with pressure cookers and slow cookers. Recipes may suggest soaking some small legumes, but soaking is often left out.

The interior parts of brown lentils are reddish pink and can be hulled and processed into red lentils. Some exporters, wholesalers and retailers refer to brown lentils as red lentils. Some Green and brown/crimson lentils grown in the US (Pacific Northwest, Eastern Washington, Northern Idaho) and Western Canada are larger than other lentils. Canadian growers mainly grow green culinaris lentils of the Laird, Richlea and Eston varieties, and a large crimson lentil (Lens esculanta).

Whole green and brown lentils and red/pink/salmon lentils grown in the US or Canada were widely available in grocery stores before Covid-19. Whole brown lentils were popular in stores in the US but not as common in Canada. The availability and presentation began to vary during the pandemic. Black lentils, small lentils that cook brown, were and are a specialized product, remained available in some channels.

Other

Other small dry legumes could be available in stores specializing in selling supplies for South Asian, Middle Eastern, North Afican, or regional European cuisines or health themed stores including vegetarian/vegan.

Legume, English/Euro name(s)	South Asian	Condition	Appearance
			Dry	Cooked
dark chickpea	chana dal (duhli)	split, hulled	yellow
pigeon pea	toor dal (duhli)	split, hulled	yellow
moong bean, mung bean	(sabut) moong dal	whole	green
moong bean	moong dal (duhli)	split, hulled	yellow	yellow
urad bean black bean	(sabut) urad dal	whole	black	black
urad bean	urad dal (duhli)	split, hulled	white
brown (spanish or german) lentil	(sabut) masoor dal	whole	brown	brown
red, pink, salmon lentil	masoor dal (duhli)	hulled and split	red	yellow
crimson lentil		hulled and/or split	red, large	yellow
green lentil		whole	pale green
French green lentil Lentil de Puys		whole	dark green, speckled
black or beluga lentil		whole	black	brown

Cooking

Lentils and other small legumes are almost inedible to humans without cooking. The hulls are hard and have to be removed mechnically, or softened by cooking; the seeds are dry and hard and have to be softened by cooking. Many recipes reduce split and hulled legumes to a gruel. Recipes for whole legumes may specify a legume with a hull that softens rapidly such as a French lentil. Other recipes for whole small legumes require long cooking – e.g. the urad bean. The seeds have to be flavoured, often by an infusion of other plants including peppers. Meat and vegetables can be cooked with legumes for nutrition or flavour. Some recipes cook small legumes in a sauce. South Asian dal recipes may require a tarka – a sauce of spices friend in oil or ghee (clarified butter) be added to cooked legumes and other ingredients. Some recipes pre-cook small legumes, and cook the legumes with other ingredients in soup, sauce or stew.

The modern kitchen provides several options for cooking dry legumes. all involving cooking in water at a boil or simmer. There are recipes to simmer small legumes in ceramic tagines and other ceramic vessels. Few cooks have such tools. On a stove, in a metal vessel, sources favour bringing the water to a rolling boil and backing off to gentlly boiling, braising or steady simmering. Cooks judge simmer or gentle boil differently. Stove and pots perform differently. Beans may be old.

Traditional slow cooker recipes for usually start from dry (unsoaked) legumes. Traditional slow cooker recipes work in pressure multi-cookers such as Instant Pots in the slow cooker program, with adjustments. There are Instant Pot and pressure multi-cooker recipes for the slow cooker program. Electric pressure cooker and pressure multi-cooker pressure program recipes also usually start from dry (unsoaked legumes). The cooking times are at pressure, and do not estimate or count the time for the machine to preheat to pressure. The release of pressure has to be natural (i.e. about 15 – 20 minutes). Slow cookers, pressure cooker and pressure multi-cookers can pre-cook dry legumes, or cook a recipe using dry legumes in a sauce or stew.

Sources provide a range of cooking times (minutes unless other unit noted):

Legume/Dal	Source	Simmer	Slow cooker	Electric Pressure
Brown, Green, French Green or Black (beluga) lentil	How to Cook Everything and, How to Cook Everything Vegetarian, Mark Bittman	20-30 test and cook longer depending on tenderness
brown lentil	Italian Vegetarian Cookbook (1997), Jack Bishop	25-35
brown lentil	Pakistani & North Indian Cooking (2015), S. Abbas Razza	45
brown or green lentil	366 Delicious Ways to Cook Rice, Beans and Grains (1998), Andrea Chesman	25-40
brown or green lentil	Easy Beans (1994), Tish Ross and Jacqueline Trafford	30-40; 1-2 hrs for soups
green lentil	At Home with Madhur Jaffrey (1973), Madhur Jaffrey	40
brown lentil	The Indian Slow Cooker (2nd ed. 2018), Anupy Singla		Low; 3 hrs
brown or green lentil	Hip Pressure Cooking (2014), Laura Pazzaglia			High 12-14
brown or green lentil	Vegan Under Pressure (2016), Jill Nusinow			High 6
red lentil	366 Delicious Ways to Cook Rice, Beans and Grains (1998), Andrea Chesman	15
red lentil	At Home with Madhur Jaffrey (1973), Madhur Jaffrey	40-45
red lentil	Indian for Everyone (2014), Anupy Singla; The Indian Slow Cooker (2nd ed. 2018), Anupy Singla	12 + final boil	Low; 3-6 hrs
red lentil	The Complete Slow Cooker (2017), America’s Test Kitchen		High; 2-3 hrs Low; 3-4 hrs
red lentil	Hip Pressure Cooking (2014), Laura Pazzaglia			High 1
red lentil	Vegan Under Pressure (2016), Jill Nusinow			High 6 +
toor dal (duhli)	At Home with Madhur Jaffrey (1973), Madhur Jaffrey	1 hr +
chana dal, toor dal (duhli),	Indian for Everyone (2014), Anupy Singla; The Indian Slow Cooker (2nd ed. 2018), Anupy Singla	*soaked 2-4 hrs, 25-60	High; 6 hrs
sabut moong dal	Indian for Everyone (2014), Anupy Singla; The Indian Slow Cooker (2nd ed. 2018), Anupy Singla	25-30	Low; 2 ⅟₂ hrs
moong bean	Hip Pressure Cooking (2014), Laura Pazzaglia			High 7-8
sabat urad dal	Indian for Everyone (2014), Anupy Singla; The Indian Slow Cooker (2nd ed. 2018), Anupy Singla	1 ⅟₂ hrs	High; 8 hrs
moong dal duhli	At Home with Madhur Jaffrey (1973), Madhur Jaffrey	45
“yellow split” lentil	Hip Pressure Cooking (2014), Laura Pazzaglia			High 1