I make a soup from a recipe in the book Vegan Under Pressure by the nutrition/cooking writer Jill Nussinow. Her web site is The Veggie Queen. She promotes the book on her web site. I also refer to Hip Pressure Cooking, by the cooking writer Laura Pazzaglia for information about cooking in an electric pressure cooker. Both books were written before the Instant Pot came on the market, but are applicable to pressure-multi-cookers.
White Bean and Cabbage Soup
Jill Nussinow, in Vegan under Pressure (p. 162), for White Bean and Cabbage Soup recommends 1½ cups of dried Cannellini beans, soaked. Cannellini is a variety or cultivar of Phaseolus vulgaris, the American common bean. It is an oval white dry bean also often sold as the white kidney bean, nearly as large as a red kidney bean. 1½ cups of beans absorb most of 2½ cups of water overnight. She also suggests Great Northern beans and Navy beans, other Phaseolus vulgaris white beans.
The recipe gets color from the use of ¼ cup of chopped sun-dried tomatoes, and from diced fresh or canned diced tomatoes. I use no salt added canned tomatoes. It gets flavor from tomatoes and from onion, garlic, Italian seasoning and bay leaves. Salt is not listed as an ingredient.
Sun-dried tomatoes are dried in salt and have sodium. I use “ready to eat” sun-dried tomatoes sold in sealed pressed blocks by San Remo. I can buy these when a couple of local stored have them in stock. The tomatoes appear to be Turkish. The Food Facts label defines a serving of three tomatoes as 15 grams, and states this serving has 314 mg. of sodium. I try to get mix of larger and smaller tomatoes, and use 6 tomatoes, to get about 45 grams or ¼ cup of chopped pieces. The sun-dried tomatoes contribute about 900 mg. sodium and are the main source of sodium in this recipe.
White Kidney beans
For the last few years, I used the Walmart store brand Great Value dry white kidney beans for this soup but changed when Walmart stopped selling those dry beans.
Italian Seasoning
Jill Nussinow’s recipe for Italian Seasoning in Vegan Under Pressure (p. 41) makes just a little more than 160 ml – about ⅔ of a cup. I make a batch every few months.
It involves dried whole herbs or leaves (crumbled leaves), and a few ground spices:
Ingredient
Amount
basil
3 Tbsp.
oregano
2 Tbsp.
marjoram
1 Tbsp.
parsley
1 Tbsp.
thyme
2 tsp.
summer savory
1 tsp.
rosemary (ground or finely chopped)
1 tsp.
dried minced garlic
1 Tbsp
dried minced onion
2 tsp.
dried red pepper flakes
≦ ½ tsp.
*optional: minced dried lemon peel or lemon verbena
2 tsp.
Availability of the component herbs depends on practices of the growers, wholesalers and the retail merchants. I had to search for dry crumbled summer savory when a small local herb firm stopped providing this herb to local grocery stores.
This post mainly discusses shopping for instant yeast in 2024.
In 2000, in Beth Hensperger in her Bread Lovers’ Bread Machine Cookbook, suggested that bread machine recipes should be different if the bread machine baker used Lesaffre’s SAF Red Instant Yeast, as opposed to other bread Machine yeast. In my 2018 post Dry Yeast, I suggested that yeasts sold as Quick Rising or Bread Machine yeasts were equivalent to, or were instant yeasts with confusing names. I used SAF Red Instant Yeast but I experimented with the amount of yeast and salt. I have tried to reduce salt in the bread I eat, and spend time reconciling recipes to the bread machines I used.
Over the last few years, I was able to buy SAF Red Instant in 450 g bags from King Arthur online either directly from King Arthur’s e-commerce “sales” pages or in the Amazon market twice since 2018. I stored it in a freezer – a bag lasted for a couple of years, and hundreds of medium bread machine loaves.
There was a shortage of yeast in 2020 during the Covid-19 pandemic. Active dry yeast is now available. There is no discussion in the media of a shortage of instant yeast products. Indeed, there are instant yeasts available in the USA and Canada.
Red Barn stores, a local grocery chain was sold vacuum bags of instant yeast, branded as Red Barn, a few years ago. I bought and used a bag.
I was not able to purchase SAF Instant Red in July 2024. King Arthur still sells it but its web store the site refuses to process and order that is to be shipped to a buyer outside the USA. It was possible to buy active dry yeast in grocery stores in Victoria, BC, Canada but product called instant yeast had disappeared. Walmart.ca showed 3 instant yeasts in their e-commerce but not in stock in local (Victoria) stores or available online:
SAF Instant Red,
Bob’s Red Mill Instant Yeast (Bob’s Red Mill no longer offers that an Instant Yeast in it e-commerce pages),
Lallemand Instaferm was available on some Canadian e-commerce sites and at Costco, but shipping charges and Costco membership fees added to the price. Searches of the Walmart stores and markets returned active dry yeasts, including Fleischmann’s, and Bob’s Red Mill Active Dry Yeast to searches for instant yeast.
Fleischmann’s markets instant yeast as “Quick-Rise” in 139 g. glass jars sold at about $5 a jar (Walmart). Fleischmann’s also sells instant yeast as Bread Machine yeast. The Real Canadian Superstore’s Wholesale Club warehouse store listed 139 g. jars of both kinds of the instant yeast online at about $6 a jar.
I found a 450 g. foil vacuum bag of Fleischmann’s IDY (instant dry yeast) in the Real Canadian Superstore’s Wholesale Club warehouse store in Esquimalt for $6. It performed as well as SAF Instant Red in my bread machine
It would appear that the yeast manufacturers have been making yeast but perhaps deceasing the total amounts sold to for retail sale, and playing with regional supply and distribution. The search engines for many retail stores are not useful at finding things,
My browsing led me to a hit about pizza dough. In 2003 Peter Reinhart had published recipes for pizza dough in his book American Pie made with instant yeast. Daniel DiMuzio had a recipe for pizza dough made with a preferment made with instant yeast in Bread Baking: An Artisans Perspective (2010). The baking yeast companies market “pizza crust” yeast, which is not sold, as far as I can see, in Canadian retail stores. Pizza crust yeast:
… is a type of instant yeast … does not require proofing … . In addition to this, pizza crust yeast are also fortified with dough relaxers to prevent snapping back of dough when rolled, and these relaxers can cause the dough to rise quickly in the oven.
… differs from instant yeast … contains L-Cysteine which is an amino acid that serves as a reducing agent for breaking down the proteins in gluten. L-Cysteine helps to soften gluten and therefore relax dough. This is what makes dough not to shrink or spring back when you roll it.
Through this conditioning, a softer, better textured and high volume end result is achieved. Also, it becomes possible to mix, roll and bake pizzas without any proofing needed.
Another difference you’ll notice when comparing the instant dry yeast with the pizza crust yeast is that doughs made with the latter will have a much lower temperature, better consistency and will be easier to handle, even though the difference is by a small degree.
Pasta is a starchy food products that has been cooked in Italy for centuries. Other food productd made with wheat – e.g. couscous – are known in countries around the Mediterranean.
Italian buyers have favoured semolina, a coarsely ground flour ground from Durham wheat, a hard, high-protein wheat. Modern “fresh’ pasta recipes for pasta dough for manual and electric pasta machines (that press and cut the dough) call for some semolina, some lower protein “soft” flour (e.g. US “all purpose”) or white bread flour, and water. Some recipes call for some salt, and for eggs to make egg pasta noodles. The dough recipes are similar in proportions of flour and water to bread formulas
Wheat flour will form gluten when water is added, which makes the dough extensible and elastic. Pasta is an unleavened product; the dough, made of flour and water, does not ferment or rise. Dough is pressed and cut into noodles. Gluten makes the noodles hold their shapes. The noodles are cooked in boiling water. Fresh noodles may have to be cooked fairly soon; industially manufactured fresh pasta has become a refrigerated product available in grocery stores.
Dried
Dried pasta was developed by Italian manufacturers in the 19th century and the early 20th century. It is more durable than fresh pasta. It is made by mixing flour and water into dough, extruding the dough through dies, cutting it, moving it on conveyor belts to drying machine, drying it and packaging the dry noodles. The Wikipedia article pasta processing provides an overview. Whole wheat and gluten-free dried pasta products became available during the late 20th century. Dried pasta generally is made without salt and has very little sodium.
Dried pasta noodles vary: long, short, and shaped. Noodles gain weight and volume when cooked in water. Dried pasta of any given weight generally absorbs about the same amount of water as the same amount of differently shaped dried pasta. The Dry to Cooked Pasta Calculator: A Comprehensive Guide at the Lyn’s Kitchen site provides the amounts of gain, by volume, in tables. Four US ounces (112 g.) of dried elbow pasta (macaroni), a short pasta, which is one US cup by volume, yields 2.5 cups of cooked pasta. (The same amount, by weight, of dried long or shaped noodles yields different volumes of cooked pasta.) The tables at that site do not estimate the weight of the wet, drained, cooked pasta. The USDA tables, discussed below, suggest that the main difference between 100 g. of uncooked and cooked dried pasta is that cooked pasta has an additional 51 g. of water, suggesting that less than 50 g. of dried uncooked pasta gains over 50 g. during cooking.
The USDA FoodData Central data has nutritional information about some cooked pasta in the Survey Foods (FNDDS) and Legacy Foods (2018) databases. and states nutritional information for a stated volume (e.g. 1 cup) or weight (100 g.). The Legacy Foods data has separate entries for uncooked dried pasta and salted cooked pasta. Noted with respect to 100 g. of uncooked dried pasta or cooked pasta:
uncooked dried pasta contains about 9 to 9.9 g. water;
cooked pasta contains about 62 g. water;
dried pasta cooked without salt has 1 mg. of sodium; and
dried pasta cooked with salt has 131 mg. of sodium .
Culinary Advice
Recommended Practices
Many culinary sources discuss the best practices for cooking dried pasta: to drop dried pasta in boiling water and drain it when the pasta has been hydrated and cooked al dente (which may vary from the time specified by the manufacturer). The sources vary on the amount of water. The majority recommend a gallon of water (4 US quarts, or 16 US cups, by volume) for one pound (454 grams) of dried pasta. A pound of dried pasta is said by many culinary writers to be enough for four servings of cooked pasta. A US gallon of water weighs about 3,800 grams, and has a volume of 3.785 liters. A cook may decides to use less cooking water:
to cook less than 1 lb. of dried pasta, or
to use a recipe or method that uses less water for other reasons.
Low-salt and other health oriented cookbooks (e.g. The American Heart Association’s Low-Salt Cookbook) counsel against salting pasta water while most culinary sources advise the home cook to cook the pasta in salted water to make the pasta taste better. Older culinary sources say that pasta has been traditionally cooked in water “as salty as the sea” but modern sources dismiss that standard. Some sources also say salt slows the gelatinization of starch in the pasta and makes the pasta more firm. The majority of culinary sources recommend 1 Tablespoon (3 tsp.) or 4 teaspoons (of ordinary table salt – i.e. made of moderately fine crystals) in 1 gallon. A printed example: The Complete Italian Vegetarian Cookbook, (1997) by Jack Bishop. Web sources:
1 Tablespoon of table salt weighs 17.1 grams. 1 Tbsp. of salt dissolved in water adds to the total weight of the cooking water by about .005. It contributes 6,720 mg. of sodium ions to 1 gallon cooking water. Some of the boiling cooking water evaporates, and some is absorbed by the pasta. There is a question about how much sodium dried pasta absorbs when cooked in salted water.
The America’s Test Kitchen/Cook’s Illustrated site, a culinary site, minimizes the sodium added by cooking dried pasta in salted water on the basis of “independent” testing. But, it did not say how the test was conducted and state the results:
Adding salt to pasta’s cooking water ensures that the pasta is flavorful. Throughout the years we’ve zeroed in on a preferred ratio of 1 tablespoon of table salt to 4 quarts of cooking water per pound of pasta for the most well-seasoned pasta of any shape or size.
Give or take a few milligrams of sodium, all the shapes absorbed about the same amount of salt: 1/16 teaspoon per 4-ounce serving or a total of 1/4 teaspoon per pound of pasta. … even if you are watching your sodium intake, the amount pasta actually absorbs is so small that it’s probably not an issue.
An article published on the culinary MarthaStewart.com web site suggested the amount of sodium added to pasta by cooking it in water with 1 Tablespoon of salt was minor:
Sodium patrollers can rest easy knowing that your pasta will not absorb the full tablespoon of salt. In fact, a pound of pasta is estimated to absorb only about a quarter of that amount.
The estimate of a quarter of a tablespoon of salt is not explained. This would be 4.3 grams, which would include nearly 1,700 mg. of sodium. This works out to 425 mg per serving, which is not alarming but is a significant amount for one course of one meal in a day.
Culinary Writing and Publishing
“Tastes better” is an opinion delivered as culinary advice.
The culinary sources above implied there is scientific evidence that cooking dried pasta in salted water does not present health concerns for consumers. The sources have failed to identify the experimental evidence or papers that anchor their opinions. If the writers, editors and publishers understood the heatlh risks, they might have said what they knew. The culinary publishing industry has not been giving advice based on food science or medical science.
The culinary sources suggest that cooking dried pasta in salted water does not add much sodium in terms of the US National Research Council’s Recommended Daily Allowances (“RDAs”). The RDA for sodium is 2,400 mg. (or 1,500 mg. for many individuals). The legal and regulatory context:
there is no law against sodium in cooked pasta or adding salt to dried pasta through the cooking water; but
sodium in cooked pasta or salt added to dried pasta through the cooking water is not “approved” or recommended by US authorities.
The RDA is not a government standard for sodium in food. U.S. public health guidance warns about sodium in prepared, processed and cooked food and requires disclosure of sodium by the manufacturer or seller of a packaged product in precise terms.
There is no law or regulation requiring a culinary writer to explain the consequences of following a tradition, a recipe or advice on cooking. There is no RDA for culinary advice from journalists.
Web Forum
A threaded discussion in the Seasoned Advice site (“a question and answer site for professional and amateur chefs”in the StackExchange network) of the question “When cooking pasta in salted water how much of the salt is absorbed” began in 2010. The discussion includes a couple of published scientific research papers, some theories, and a little math. The references in that discussion to scientific sources:
“Changes in Sodium Content in Potatoes, Pasta and Rice with Different Cooking Methods” a report written for the Scottish Food Standard Agency in 2006. The report is not in the publications of Food Standards Scotland in 2024. The report is in the Internet Archive’s Wayback Machine, but that service often returns a 503 error – “no server available” – to requests. There is a copy in the USDA National Agricultural Library at https://www.nal.usda.gov/research-tools/food-safety-research-projects/change-sodium-content-potato-pasta-and-rice-different.
Science
Search
A search engine search can lead to the Seasoned Advice web forum discussion noted above. Finding other papers published in scientific journals about the salt in pasta cooking water with a search engine is not easy. Understanding or applying a paper is not easy. Food scientists writing for publication in academic journals do not explain the effects of cooking in the terms used in culinary writing. I located a paper that addresses, and seems to answer, the question, by searching the citation of the 1986 paper in Cereal Chemistry.
VTI Paper
There is a paper published in Food Chemistry in 2019: “Cooking parameters affect the sodium content of prepared pasta” (“VTI paper” – some of authors were at the Virginia Technical Institute at the time). It was based on experiments cooking one pound (454 g.) of dried spaghetti pasta, and other pasta samples in 6 quarts (1.5 gallons) of unsalted water, and salted water. The VTI experiments tested pasta made from wheat. Some pastas are made from rice or other gluten-free starch products. Some dried pasta products may have more sodium or take up more sodium from salted cooking water (as discussed in the 2006 report to the Scottish Standards Agency (noted above).
The VTI paper discusses cooking by a reference method (“Ref.” M.”): adding 36 g., 1the team used the conversion factor of 1 Tbsp = 18 g. 2 Tablespoons of table salt (Morton® iodized) to 6 quarts (1.5 gallons) tap water, bringing the salted cooking water to a boil, and cooking the pasta for 9 minutes. There were tests at several different concentrations of salt in water, listed in the table below. The team used a fixed amount of salt for a fixed amount of dried pasta in one control experiment. The VTI paper used the term “concentration of salt” of water (i.e. salinity, a specific mass concentration) in grams of salt in a liter of water (g/liter).
The VTI team did not test at the concentrations the culinary sources recommend, as such. These values are interpolated in the table below on the linear basis found in the paper (see below):
1 Tablespoon of table salt, 17.1 grams (some would say 18 g.); 4.52 g/liter.
4 teaspoons, 22.8 g.; 6.02 g/liter.
The VTI experiments tested for sodium in the cooked pasta:
Sodium was quantified using inductively coupled plasma spectroscopy-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) after digesting the samples using a two-day, open vessel, nitric acid/hydrogen peroxide digestion procedure
The paper reported results by sodium in milligrams divided by the mass of the cooked pasta for 100 g. of cooked pasta and for 140 g. of cooked pasta. The paper correlates experiments and data by identifying the experiments with letters of alphabet. The results of experiments A, B, G, H, I, J can be listed in a table. the results and the interpolations are ranked in the ascending order of sodium in cooked pasta:
Test and salt
Salt g/liter
mg. sodium /100 g.
mg. sodium /140 g.
G – unsalted
0
≤5
≤5
B – 50% Ref. M.
3.17
91.2
128
H – Ref. M. & rinse pasta after cooking
6.34
115
162
Interpolation*: 1 Tbsp. /gallon
4.52
125.5 *
176.1 *
Interpolation*: 4 tsp. /gallon
6.02
167. 2 *
234.5 *
A – Ref. M.
6.34
176
247
I – 150% Ref. M
9.51
267
373
J – 2x Ref. M
12.7
350
490
The VTI paper noted:
…. Dry pasta is itself low in sodium, but significant and varying sodium content results from salt added during preparation. Reducing (or eliminating) the amount of salt added when cooking pasta and/or rinsing after cooking is a simple and quantitative way to reduce dietary sodium. The purpose of salt in cooking pasta is generally agreed upon to be for taste.
The VTI experimental results supported:
… a predictive equation for sodium in cooked pasta as a function of the salt concentration in the cooking water … based on differing amounts of salt added during pasta preparation, and whether or not the pasta was rinsed.
The connection between the concentration of salt in the cooking water and sodium in the prepared pasta was linear, i.e. it graphed as a straight diagonal line in graphs in the paper. The VTI paper suggested:
The linear relationship between the concentration of salt in the cooking water and sodium in the prepared pasta … can be used to obtain a more accurate estimate of the sodium content …
This information could also be communicated to consumers as demonstrable and simple way to reduce sodium intake, by relating how much salt in pasta cooking water increases sodium, and that rinsing after cooking could reduce by 1/3 the sodium content of pasta cooked in salted water
The Culinary Sources’ Advice
The VTI team did not test at concentrations that the culinary sources recommended – 1 Tbsp. or 4 tsp. of salt per gallon of water. The results suggest that the 1 Tbsp. would add about 125 mg. and 4 tsp. about 167 mg. of sodium to 100 g. of cooked pasta.
The culinary sources are justified in saying that salting a gallon of cooking water with 1 Tbsp. or 4 tsp of salt does not make the cooked pasta very salty, and in saying pasta cooked in water with salt at those concentrations adds sodium to the cooked pasta in amounts that can be calculated as in the table above. The sodium in 100 g. of cooked pasta is less than 200 mg. Then, think about the size of serving. A serving of cooked pasta may begin as 100 to 150 g. of dried pasta, which swells in volume and gains weight. That serving of pasta may weigh 200 to 300 g. when cooked in water and may contain 350 to 500 mg. of sodium if the water has been salted to the level recommended by culinary sources.
Public Health Guidance, Flavor and Appetite
The VTI paper helps understand how much sodium a person who eats pasta cooked in salted water consumes. The paper does not prove that it is “safe” to eat pasta cooking in salted water. The health effects depend on the person, the concentration of salt, the size of the serving, and other variables.
Science-based RDAs and label warnings are not much use in preventing cooks from cooking with salt. Cooks do not often:
weigh or measure salt or water,
know, let alone understand, the sodium or salt RDAs, or
weigh the portions of cooked pasta.
Cooks commonly serve much more pasta than 100 g., topped with a sodium-rich sauce (highly processed and/or made with salt), accompanied by sodium-rich food.
Milk, discussed in a Wikipedia entry, is the milk of dairy cows, processed. Fluid milk used in baking, by commercial bakers and home bakers, in Europe and America is mainly cows’ milk. Milk must be taken to a dairy plant to be processed within hours after being harvested in a dairy farm, and only lasts a few days, even with the benefit of refrigeration. Milk sold in retail outlets in North America has been pasteurized – as required by public heath law.
At one point in history, milk was obtained by human by milking cows by hand. Milk is still obtained from cows, but in modern times, the cows are cared for on dairy farms and milked with machines. Milk naturally separate into cream and milk. The high butterfat cream was, historically, churned manually to make butter. The leftover fluid, if the milk had not soured, was sweet traditional buttermilk. If the cream was churned from sour milk, the buttermilk was sour. Milk became sour due to bacteria in the milk, which started fermenting the milk.
A writer for Slate suggested in 2012:
“As long as people have made butter there’s been buttermilk,” says Anne Mendelson, a culinary historian and the author of Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages. Careful: Here, she’s talking about a byproduct of churning whole milk or cream—the thin, white liquid that [Laura Ingals] Wilder wrote about.
So how did that buttermilk, the original buttermilk, turn into the thick, sour, yogurty beverage I sampled … ? The confusion surrounding this drink dates back to the 18th century or before. Until the age of refrigeration, milk soured quickly in the kitchen, and most butter ended up being made from the slightly spoiled stuff. As a result, some historical sources use the word buttermilk … to describe the byproduct of butter-making; others use it to describe butter-making’s standard ingredient at the time—milk that had gone sour from sitting around too long. To make matters more confusing, the butter-byproduct kind of buttermilk could be either “sour,” if you started out with the off milk that was itself sometimes called buttermilk, or “sweet,” if you started out with fresh cream (like Laura’s mom did). So, prior to the 20th century, buttermilk could refer to at least three different categories of beverage: regular old milk that had gone sour; the sour byproduct of churning sour milk or cream into butter; and the “sweet” byproduct of churning fresh milk or cream into butter.
In industrial dairies, milk is refined by removing butterfat from whole milk with a centrifuge. The process is discussed in web pages other than Wikipedia. Some internet material on industrial dairy methods and science:
… the stuff known as cultured buttermilk at your local supermarket—i.e. milk that has been deliberately soured—is a 20th-century invention, and the product of a health-food diet craze dating back to the flapper era.
….
In Western Europe and America, the only people who bothered to drink buttermilk of any kind were the poor farmers and slaves who needed all the calories and nutrition they could get. Everyone else fed sour milk and butter-byproduct to their farm animals.
….
While farmers’ wives and other home cooks were using sour milk in their baked goods, America saw an influx of immigrants from parts of the world where sour milk was considered a refreshing everyday beverage. Ashkenazi Jews from Eastern Europe, who have a tendency toward lactose intolerance, may have been especially inclined to drink it, since the bacteria make it more digestible. The nonimmigrant American public was generally mistrustful of sour milk as a beverage until 1907, when [a] Russian biologist … concluded that the relative longevity enjoyed by people living in the Balkans was a direct result of their consumption of sour milk. Health-conscious Americans started going crazy for sour milk, thinking it would prevent aging. At his sanitarium in Battle Creek, Mich., holistic doctor and breakfast-cereal enthusiast John Harvey Kellogg began serving an ultra-tart, deliberately soured version with the catchy name “Bulgarian buttermilk.”
Naturally-occurring sour milk had in the mean time become increasingly rare, thanks to modern refrigeration. So commercial dairies, spotting an unfilled niche, began to culture it themselves, and sold the new product widely as buttermilk starting in the 1920s. This was much like the buttermilk we find in grocery stores today: Made from low-fat milk and lactic acid bacteria that grow best under moderate heat conditions. Dairies used low-fat milk because it was cheaper than whole milk, but still took on a thick, creamy body when cultured.
L.V. Anderson, in Slate, cited above
The milk solids remaining after milk is centrifuged include the cell membranes of the fat cells, casein (a protein) and lactose (a sugar). The casein reacts to acid to curdle milk.
Full butterfat milk – often marketed as Homogenized milk (all milk processed for retail has been homogenized) – is about 3.5 % butterfat. It depends on the cows, the fodder, and the dairy. Fluid milk processed for retail sale is sold as reduced butterfat milk by the percentage of butterfact -ie. 2%, 1%, or as skim milk, which as butterfat content at a fraction over 0%.
Buttermilk
Buttermilk, since the industrialization of dairies, has been a dairy product produced by processing fluid milk. Some fluid buttermilk is produced by fermenting partially skimmed milk. Dairies also produce acidified buttermilk – milk treated by mixing milk with an acid. A dairy may use fermentation or acidification or a combination of both. The production methods are not discussed on product labels or in an ordinary dairy’s promotional materials. Nor do bakers say how the buttermilk used to mix dough was made.
The home baker’s hack to make acidified buttermilk, comparable to store-bought dairy buttermilk is to add an acid, in the amounts noted here to one cup of milk:
1 Tablespoon lemon juice;
1 Tablespoon vinegar; or
1 teaspoon cream of tartar.
Available in Victoria BC.
Most retail grocers in Victoria sell pasteurized milk processed by the Island Farms dairy, which distributes a fermented and/or acidified buttermilk said to be about 1.5% butterfat. The weight of a “1 cup (250 ml.)”1A US cup is 236.59 ml. Most cookware manufacturers label 250 ml measuring cups as 1 cup. The people who write recipes mainly say “1 cup or 250 ml.” It usually does not make a difference. serving is not stated. Conventionally, a cup of buttermilk weighs 245 grams (compare a US cup of water at 237 g.).
Dry Milk
Dehydration
Dry milk (aka milk powder) is made by dehydrating milk – removing water. Dry milk can be made with whole milk, or reduced butterfat milk. It is reconstituted by adding water. Dry milk can be added to baking recipe or formula as a dry ingredient. Adding water (or milk) to dry ingredients and mixing the ingredients to make dough is a normal process in baking bread. Manufacturers can dehydrate whole milk, skim milk and buttermilk.
Buttermilk Powder
Buttermilk powder is dehydrated dairy cultured buttermilk, made from reduced butterfat milk. It is possible to substitute buttermilk powder and water or plain milk in a recipe (e.g. for pancakes, cakes or bread) for fluid buttermilk. One way is to mix the powder with water and use the reconstituted fluid as buttermilk. Another is to add the amount of powder that would make buttermilk with the water in the bread recipe.
Buttemilk powder can be purchased online from King Arthur Flour and other suppliers. The King Arthur Flour blog, discussing and promoting King Arthur Dried Buttermilk:
Use dried buttermilk as a substitute for the liquid buttermilk called for in your recipe. It’s simple as (buttermilk) pie: For every cup of liquid buttermilk, substitute 1/4 cup (30g) dried buttermilk plus 1 cup (227g) water (or milk). Don’t worry about reconstituting the powder by stirring it together with liquid: Simply mix dried buttermilk into your recipe at the same time you add the flour, and add the liquid when the recipe says to add the buttermilk.
….
Dried buttermilk yields results nearly identical to liquid, with just two small differences: Baked goods made with dried buttermilk are slightly lighter in color than those made with liquid cultured buttermilk, and their flavor is a bit richer — more creamy-buttery than tangy.
….
Another discovery: When replacing fresh buttermilk with dried, using milk in place of the water typically called for in this substitution gives baked goods even better texture and flavor, thanks to the additional milk solids, fats, and sugars.
As of 2024, retail grocers in Victoria BC have skim milk powder for sale. I have not seen whole milk powder or buttermilk powder on the grocery store shelves for years. I have been able to get buttermilk powder in a local outlet of the bulk foods chain Bulk Barn (which also sells full fat milk powder and skim milk powder). Bulk Barn uses a serving size of 100 g. of buttermilk powder for the Food Facts label. 100 mg. contains 517 mg. of sodium. Bulk Barn suggests 25 g. to make 1 cup of buttermilk. This can be scaled to 28 g. of powder in 1 ⅛ cups of water. These are normal liquid quantities in recipes for medium loaves, in bread machine terms.
Fluid dairy buttermilk, reconstituted buttermilk and buttermilk powder added as a bread ingredient before mixing all produce similiar loaves.
A “1 cup” serving of Island Farms buttermilk contains 270 mg of sodium. “1 cup” of buttermilk made with 25 g. of Bulk Barn Buttermilk powder (and 1 “cup”) of water contains just under 260 mg. of sodium.
Substitution for buttermilk powder
Some internet resources suggest that mixing cream of tartar with skim milk powder, produces a powder that can be substituted for buttermilk powder. I am skepical in the absence of a scientific explanation and test/experimental evidence:
Would adding cream of tartar (or one of the other acids) to a cup of reconstituted skim milk work – skim milk is very low in butterfat – make buttermilk that compares to dairy buttermilk; and
Doesn’t the cream of tartar, added as a powder to the dry dough ingredients (and not to the fluid milk) act like vinegar or other acids that relax dough – affecting the gluten and producing soft crumb.
The US Department of Agriculture Agricultural Research Service’s FoodData Central (“USDA FDC”) can search 5 data sets. It may be necessary to search in each set. The American government collects or tests samples for the FNDDS Survey Foods data set, but not the others. The government requires tests from accredited services at a manufacturer or distributor’s expense in most instances.
Other countries, including Canada, have data sets on products offered for sale in those countries. The data comes from manufacturers or hired services. Government or independent testing is limited.
The USDA FDC data sets are:
Foundation Foods,
Standard Reference Legacy Foods,
Human Research Center Food and Nutrient database for Dietary Studies (“FNDDS Survey Foods”),
diet guides and cookbooks. The AHA sells a Low-Salt Cookbook, first published in 1990. The 2011 4th edition is the most modern, and is currently for sale on the internet at the AHA website;
The noises of the heartbeat, the flow of blood through blood vessels, and the detectable pulse in blood vessels have been known for a very long time. Medical science, in the 19th and 20th centuries, credited the idea that blood circulated through the body by vessels from and to the heart to William Harvey, in 1628. This theory was accepted as a better idea than the idea of “humours” postulated by classical and medieval Greek, Roman, Arabic, and middle Eastern writers.
Measuring Pressure
The measurement of blood pressure was identified by medical and scientific persons as posssible and desireable in the 18th century. The theory was that all human beings had an ideal objective “normal” blood pressure. By the early decades of the 20th century, measurement of blood pressure was a standard diagnostic procedure. It is still understood that way. The Wikipedia entry for Blood Pressure notes, as of late 2023 “Blood pressure is one of the vital signs … that healthcare professionals use in evaluating a patient’s health.”
The health care professions describe ausculatory and oscillomatric measurement of blood pressure as “non-invasive”, because blood vessels are not pierced or penetrated.
Both methods, as of the late 20th century, have monitored the air pressure in an airtight bladder contained in a cuff. The cuffs are held in a fixed position against the body by the fabric shell of the cuff, which is closed with a fastener. The adhesive hook and loop fastener system, known as Velcro is used in devices built in and after the late 20th century. The airtight inflatable cuff is the inner layer of a cuff assembly. Its outer layer has a fastener sewed the outside.
Ausculatory blood pressure measurement started in the 19th century. The stethoscope and the sphygnomanometer were invented and came into use. The ausculatory method involved (and still involves, when used):
listening to the the artery – ususally the brachial artery, a major artery in the upper arm – with a stethoscope applied to the inside of the limb above the elbow, to detect when blood is flowing,
restricting the flow until the sound was not detected, then releasing it, and
using a sphygnomanometer to measure the pressure in cuff used to restrict the flow in the artery.
The Ausculatory method was administered by trained professionals in medical facilities. Medical doctors and nursed used the method to gather data about “normal”.
Since the early 20th century, for the ausculatory method, the flow in the artery has been been restricted with an inflatable cuff device – at one time a manually inflated pneumatic device. It was wide enough to apply pressure without bruising or injury to the limb, and applied above the elbow. The pressure in the cuff was a measure of the blood pressure.
Systolic pressure is the maximum pressure during one heartbeat. Diastolic pressure is the minimum pressure between two heartbeats. The units of measurement are millimeters of mercury (abbreviated mmHg), derived from the original mercury column sphygnomanometer. In the 20th century medical offices, clinics and hospitals were equipped with aneroid sphygnomanometers. The devices are or were regularly calibrated to the ambient air pressure for proper use.
Oscillations in the circulatory system were noted in medical literature as early as 1876. The oscillometic method was dependent on the development of transducers and monitors by the electronic industry. The idea of using compressed air in hose to trigger a switch had been used commercially to design devices that could monitor traffic in the 20th century. Automobile service stations used devices made up of a hose, a pressure switch and a bell to alert staff that vehicle had entered the lot and was in a position to purchase gasoline. Such devices are still on the market in the early 21st century to monitor entry to some properties.
The first commercial oscillometer blood pressure monitor was patented in the USA in 1976. With an electronic sensor, this kind of monitor could detect oscillations in the cuff. The oscillations could used to measure blood pressure with the oscillometric method. A sensor could detect the pressure applied by the cuff when the oscillations of the artery in the limb to which the cuff was applied had stopped.
Automated oscillometric blood pressure cuffs and meters do not detect the sounds in the artery or correlate sounds to pressure. These devices inflate the cuff, detect when blood flow through the limb has paused, take readings, release the cuff, record and display blood pressure and pulse. They appears to work like a health care worker using a stethocope and an aneroid sphygnomanometer:
shut down at a pressure slightly higher than the pressure when the ocillations stopped,
release pressure gradually,
record the systolic and diastolic pressure, and
release pressure.
The oscillometric method is very accurate. It can be administered without a stethoscope and by automated devices. Its accuracy is subject to the hardware and to electronic and software settings. It has changed the idea of a normal measurement.The standards of normal pressure and unhealthy hypertension are being redefined according to statistical analysis of sample groups of readings among patients with different characteristics.
The oscillometric method is used to measure blood pressure in automated devices used in
most medical care facilities and some diagnostic settings, and
for home use for patients to monitor and report blood pressure.
Automated monitor methods are less expensive and time consuming for health care providers. Automated devices are built to standards. A device is regarded as accurate if the design and the manufacturing process meet standards. In theory, automated device are self-calibrating, and deliver acceptably accurate readings every time they are used, if:
the device is working as the manufacturer says,
the cuff is applied properly,
the patient
is properly seated,
has been inactive, and is warm and comfortable, and
A patient must install the cuff, take the reading and record the result. Many home devices use a flexible internal plastic shell between the inner cuff and the outlayer. The shell curves around the limb where the cuff is applied. This makes the cuff easier to fit on an arm, and easier to fasten. It is possible. perhaps easy, to install the cuff incorrectly, leading to incorrect readings.
The Canadian advocacy entity Hypertension Canada allows manufacturers to use its Gold and Silver marks on product packages based on its review of how the manufacturers have met certain standards1“Those with a Gold rating meet the highest and most current international standards, and those with the Silver ratings meet the highest international standards available prior to their most recent updates. (Both Gold and Silver levels are accepted as accurate)”. The rating makes the devices more marketable. The rating process is not transparent. It does not appear that Hypertension Canada tests devices to verify accuracy. It appears that Hypertension Canada requires manufacturers seeking approval to say that they have processes that meet standards.
The basic home device would has:
a cuff connected by a hose to a
device containing g the pump, the sensor and an LCD display.
An automated home device, sold in 2020-23 might have Bluetooth to upload data to another device, or other data collection and transmission functions.
Manufacturer Training
The manufacturers of home devices do not train home uses directly. They provide detailed instructions to users on attaching the cuff, posture during readings, and the operation of devices. A manual will suggest the cuff be applied to upper part of the left arm at a distance above the elbow, usually with the inflation tube aligned to the inside of the limb. It may suggest a different place and alignment on the right arm.
A manual will advise aking readings in a quiet place, at the same time, keeping warm, avoiding stresss and not taking readins for at least 30 minutes after bathing, consuming alcohol or caffeine, smoking ot excercising. Similiar advice can also be found in resources like the Canadian advocacy entity Hypertension Canada’s pamphlet for professionals. These instructions are actually important to get an accurate reading.
The display area has an area that flashes the systolic pressure as the cuff inflates, and as the cuff deflates. This area gives the systolic reading when the device stops. A separate heartbeat symbol flashes when oscillations are detected as the cuff is inflated, and as the cuff is deflated and the reading is taken. Some devices will display icons for “movement error” and irregular heartbeat”. Irregular heart beat icon can be triggered by movment errors, which may occur when the cuff is not attached properly, as well as when the user moves the limb with the cuff, or coughs or sneezes.
Readings
The normal blood pressure, according to older medical literature and most blood pressure monitor manufacturers, of a healthy adult is 120 mmHg systolic and 80 mmHg diastolic. This is written as 120/80 (spoken as “120 over 80”). “Normal” is more complicated than 120/80:
“… the average blood pressure, age standardized, since 1975 to the present, at approx. 127/79 in men and 122/77 in women, although these average data mask significantly diverging regional trends.”
… in many older people, systolic blood pressure often exceeds the normal adult range”.
….
Blood pressure fluctuates from minute to minute and normally shows a circadian rhythm over a 24-hour period, with highest readings in the early morning and evenings and lowest readings at night. Loss of the normal fall in blood pressure at night is associated with a greater future risk of cardiovascular disease and there is evidence that night-time blood pressure is a stronger predictor of cardiovascular events than day-time blood pressure. Blood pressure varies over longer time periods (months to years) and this variability predicts adverse outcomes. Blood pressure also changes in response to temperature, noise, emotional stress, consumption of food or liquid, dietary factors, physical activity, changes in posture (such as standing-up), drugs, and disease. The variability in blood pressure and the better predictive value of ambulatory blood pressure measurements has led some authorities, such as the National Institute for Health and Care Excellence (NICE) in the UK, to advocate for the use of ambulatory blood pressure as the preferred method for diagnosis of hypertension
Blood pressure is stable for periods of time. Measurement is complicated by environmental and psychological factors. Health care professionals recognize white coat hypertension which is studied in reference to the effect of being monitored in a clinical setting and labile hypertension.
Some people may have labile hypertension. Labile means changeable and connotes unstable.
Health care professionals generally trust the devices to provide an accurate measurement of blood pressure at a point in time. Readings play a major role in the diagnosis and treatment of hypertension. The AHA’s online pamphlet Understanding Blood Pressure Readings classifies of 5 bands of BP readings. Hypertension can be described(by the AHA stage 2, above) as a medical condition in which the blood pressure in the arteries is persistently elevated – systolic blood pressure is elevated (>140 mmHg) with a normal diastolic blood pressure. Isolated systolic hypertension may present a health concern. This is called elevated or prehypertension in some material. Where elevated readings (>140/>90) appear twice, a medical doctor can diagnose hypertension.
Blood pressure is classified by two measurements, the systolic and diastolic pressures, which are the maximum and minimum pressures, respectively. For most adults, normal blood pressure at rest is within the range of 100–130 millimeters mercury (mmHg) systolic and 60–80 mmHg diastolic. For most adults, high blood pressure is present if the resting blood pressure is persistently at or above 130/80 or 140/90 mmHg. … Ambulatory blood pressure monitoring over a 24-hour period appears more accurate than office-based blood pressure measurement.
Physicians in most places diagnose hypertension on the basis of blood pressure readings, and treat it by prescribing anti-hypertensive medication and testing patients periodically. A few countries cover the cost of prescribed medications under health insurance or drug cost insurance.
Lifestyle changes and medications can lower blood pressure and decrease the risk of health complications. Lifestyle changes include weight loss, physical exercise, decreased salt intake, reducing alcohol intake, and a healthy diet. If lifestyle changes are not sufficient, then blood pressure medications are used. Up to three medications taken concurrently can control blood pressure in 90% of people. The treatment of moderately high arterial blood pressure (defined as >160/100 mmHg) with medications is associated with an improved life expectancy. The effect of treatment of blood pressure between 130/80 mmHg and 160/100 mmHg is less clear …
….
The first line of treatment for hypertension is lifestyle changes, including dietary changes, physical exercise, and weight loss. Though these have all been recommended in scientific advisories, a Cochrane systematic review found no evidence for effects of weight loss diets on death, long-term complications or adverse events in persons with hypertension.The review did find a decrease in body weight and blood pressure.Their potential effectiveness is similar to and at times exceeds a single medication. If hypertension is high enough to justify immediate use of medications, lifestyle changes are still recommended in conjunction with medication.
Dietary changes shown to reduce blood pressure include diets with low sodium, the DASH diet (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension), and plant-based diets. … There is evidence from randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials that Hibiscus tea consumption significantly reduces systolic blood pressure (-4.71 mmHg, 95% CI [-7.87, -1.55]) and diastolic blood pressure (-4.08 mmHg, 95% CI [-6.48, -1.67]). Beetroot juice consumption also significantly lowers the blood pressure of people with high blood pressure
Increasing dietary potassium has a potential benefit for lowering the risk of hypertension. The 2015 Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee (DGAC) stated that potassium is one of the shortfall nutrients which is under-consumed in the United States. However, people who take certain antihypertensive medications (such as ACE-inhibitors or ARBs) should not take potassium supplements or potassium-enriched salts due to the risk of high levels of potassium.
Wikipedia, September 2022, Hypertension
Doctors often prescribe medications to reduce blood pressure to levels under 140/90. Medical care is often dedicated to managing medications and adverse side-effects. The medications have adverse side-effects. ACE inhibitors (e.g.), can cause persistent dry coughing, among other things. Calcium channel blockers (e.g. Amlodypine) often cause peripheral edema.
Diet
Some governments and advocacy groups (e.g. the AHA) have promoted the Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension (“DASH”), eating plan.
Alcohol
In the short run, drinking alcohol increases blood pressure for a short period after consumption. One drink will raise blood pressure for about two hours. Long term regular drinking contributes to hypertension, The causation is still under discussion. A 2014 paper says:
… the mechanism through which alcohol raises blood pressure remains elusive. Several possible mechanisms have been proposed such as an imbalance of the central nervous system, impairment of the baroreceptors, enhanced sympathetic activity, stimulation of the renin-angiotensin-aldosterone system, increased cortisol levels, increased vascular reactivity due to increase in intracellular calcium levels, stimulation of the endothelium to release vasoconstrictors and loss of relaxation due to inflammation and oxidative injury of the endothelium leading to inhibition of endothelium-dependent nitric oxide production. Loss of relaxation due to inflammation and oxidative injury of the endothelium by angiotensin II leading to inhibition of endothelium-dependent nitric oxide production is the major contributors of the alcohol-induced hypertension. For the prevention of alcohol-induced hypertension is to reduce the amount of alcohol intake. Physical conditioning/exercise training is one of the most important strategies to prevent/treat chronic alcohol-induced hypertension on physiological basis. The efficacious pharmacologic treatment includes the angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitors or angiotensin II type 1 receptor blockers (ARBs) which have antioxidant activity and calcium channel blockers.
Caffeine can elevate blood pressure temporarily, which will affect blood pressure readings. It is not discussed as a significant lifestyle or dietary factor causing hypertension.
Sodium
Salt
Salt is found as a crystaline solid, or in solution in water. Salt can be mined from mineral deposits, or extracted from seawater by evaporation. Salt was used to preserve, store and prepare food for centuries.
Most salt for cooking is processed to standard sized crystals sold as table salt. It is the standard presentation of the salt sold in grocery stores for household use in cooking and baking. The crystals are small enough to fit the holes in a salt shaker, and dissolve in water including in the amounts used to mix bread dough in industrial bakeries. Table salt is treated with anti-caking agents. Depending on manufacturer and brand, it may be treated with or without iodine and other chemicals.
Kosher salt is a table salt with slightly larger crystals, and normally not treated with chemicals other than anti-caking ingredients. Sea salt may have crystals of varying sizes, some of which may not dissolve and distribute uniformly during cooking and baking.
Humans became habituated to salt. During the industrialization of food processing, the food industry used salt to mask the changes to the taste of food that was processed in canneries, and began to use salt as flavour enhancer to increase the sales of processed foods.
It was not believed to be harmful until medical research was conducted in the 20th century.
Chemistry, Biology
Salt, at the atomic/molecular level has one atom of sodium (symbol Na) bonded to and one atom of chlorine (symbol Cl), and is chemically described as (NaCL) sodium chloride. Salt crystals dissolve in water. NaCl can be separated by electrolysis. Salt molecules consumed by living organisms are used in metabolism in extracellular fluid and interstitial fluid.
Sodium is an element, an alkaline earth metal in Group 1, in the periodic table. In living organisms, salt is separated into sodium cations (positively charged ions) and chlorine anions. Before industrial food processing manufactured other products made with sodium, humans consumed animals and plants, or salt, to acquire sodium. Most plants consume little salt, but animals, including humans, require sodium. Sodium is a vital nutrient:
Sodium ions play a diverse and important role in many physiological processes, acting to regulate blood volume, blood pressure, osmotic equilibrium and pH.
Sodium is the primary cation in extracellular fluids in animals and humans. Sodium ions pass into cellular fluid by the enzyme in the cell walls known as the sodium-potassium pump. I have not found an explanation for whether or how the sodium ions are separated from the chlorine or other anions/atoms. Humans (and other animals) have taste receptors that detect sodium ions or salt. These receptors also detect the ions of other alkali metals as salty.
The sense of taste for salt is not calibrated. Humans can detect that a mouthful of food contains salt but cannot tell how much sodium they consume.
The adequate intake for sodium is 1,200 to 1,500 milligrams per day. On average, people in the United States consume 3,400 milligrams per day, an amount that promotes hypertension. Salt contains about 39.3% sodium by mass; the safe upper limit for sodium is under 1 teaspoon per day. 1 tsp of table salt weighs 5.7 grams, and contains 2,240 mg. of sodium.
The food industry resists reducing the use of sodium in the preparation of packaged foods and restaurant meals. It markets some salty items as traditional foods. Its lobbyists and lawyers disputes the harms of salt. The food industry argues that
consumers make informed decisions (the same argument tobacco companies and drug companies used to defend their profit from the sale of addictive products), and
manufacturers have the right to use salt to sell products profitably.
Manufacturers are required to disclose facts to the USDA in the USA, and to disclose facts to persons purchasing packaged foods with a label on the package headed “Nutrition Facts”. Sodium is listed in the Food/Nutrition facts labels in milligrams; (.001 or 1/1000 of a gram). Sodium is also stated in the Food/Nutrition facts labelsas a % of the national recommended daily allowance (usually the USDA RDA) in a stated amount called a serving, as defined by the manufacturer. It is usually given as a volume and often also as a weight measured in grams.
There are regulations in the USA requiring chain restaurants to disclose sodium content on menus and in some instances tag the content with health risk logo that may alert consumers. These regulations are resisted by restaurants and manufacturers, by lobbying, occasional litigation, obscurity, equivocation and evasion. The Canadian CBC Network covered sodium in restaurant food in Canada in its television/streaming program Marketplace‘s episode “Putting takeout to the test: the shocking amount of sodium in some restaurant meals” (Season 50, Episode aired January 6, 2023) – Text for internet article, with link to YouTube video.
I have put sodium content of several food items in a table at the end of this post.
Salt Free Foods
Salt Substitutes
Salt is essential to the preparation of some foods.
Some mineral compounds interact with the salt sensors in the human mouth. Potassium Choride is one such compound. The food manufacturer French’s began to manufacture and distribute a product called NoSalt, now packaged as the Original Sodium Free Salt Subsitute salt. In 2017 the French’s brands were acquired by McCormick & Company. NoSalt is sold by some retail grocery chains and by some specialized internet vendors. By 2024, I was able to find a potassium chloride product called SaltFree marketed by Windsor Salt in Canadian retail. There are other salt substitute products.
Salt Free Prepared Foods
Some manufacturers have produced salt free foods and brought them to market. Some have been abandoned for unknown reasons. Some salt free processed food products are on the market.
In British Columbia, Canada, the Thrifty’s grocery stores (now part of the retail group that manages the Sobeys stores) sold a store brand of no sodium whole wheat bread. It wasn’t good, but it appeared to sell. The store stopped offering it in about 2020.
Becel (an Upfield brand) packaged a low sodium margerine spread for retail distribution and sale in Canada for several years. It disappeared from retail grocery stores on Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada and everywhere Upfield did busness, as far as I can tell, in 2019. Becel’s other margerine spreads generally have about 70 mg. of sodium per 2 tsp. of margerine spread. Becel/Upfield does not post Nutrition Facts on the Web (it complies with the law and has Nutition Facts labels on its product tubs and wrappers. Becel/Upfield promotes Becel margerine spreads as healthy plant based oil products. Becel still manufactures a salt free margerine, sold in blocks. It is not spreadable.
Some zero salt products available before 2020 fell victim to supply chain problems or disappeared for retail stores during the pandemic
Salt Sensitivity
The journal Hypertension published Salt Sensitivity of Blood Pressure; A Scientific Statement From the American Heart Association in Volume 68, No. 3 in September 2016 which argued for the existence of a physiological trait by which the blood pressure of some members of the population exhibits changes parallel to changes in salt intake. Physicians in most places do not diagnose salt sensitivity.
Baking
Salt used in baking yeasted or yeast-leaving bread to flavour bread and to affect the formation of gluten. It is a normal ingredient in recipes and formulas for yeasted bread, as I discuss in my post Sodium in Bread.
Baking Soda
Baking soda, also known as sodium bicarbonate is used in baking as a chemical leaving agent. It is also used as an ingredient in manufacturing baking powder. It is not uncommon for baking recipes to use both baking powder and baking soda. Baking soda has some other uses in cooking, and several other uses.
There is a sodium free baking soda substitute called Ener-G Baking Soda Substitute, manufactured by Ener-G Foods Inc., and available online.
Baking Powder
Baking powder is a chemical leavening agent used in baking, made with baking soda. There is a sodium free baking powder substitute called Featherweight, manufactured by Hain Pure Foods, and available online.
Sodium in Food Table
The table below surveys Food Facts data on product labels for several foods that I encounter in local grocery stores. I have a separate table of food products used in baking, including salt, in my post for baking ingredients.
The column headings for the sodium content table lists the items, in groups. The column headings identify the food product, and
the Food/Nutrition Facts “serving” size, normally set by the manufacturer and details as stated by the mfr., in the Food Facts label:
the weight or mass (in grams) of the Unit and/or
the volume (American Tablespoons (“T”) and teaspoons (“t”) , and/or metric in milliters (“ml”)), ;
for some items, a realistic amount (“RA”) used in a recipe;
the sodium (“Na”) in the RA, by weight, in milligrams. If no RA is given, the Na is per serving.
In the house sauce group, I have chosen the pepper sauces with low sodium, which use 1 teaspoon as a serving size. I have not used the heavily marketed hot sauces (e.g. Frank’s Red Hot) which may use a large serving size.
Food
Serving
RA
Na (mg.)
Condiments & Spreads
Mayonnaise Hellman’s Regular
1 T
98
Mustard (Dijon) Maille
1 t 5 ml
120
Peanut Butter Island Nut Roastery (Sidney BC)
15 g. 1 T
0
Hot Sauce McIlhenny Tabasco
1 t. 5 ml.
35
Hot Sauce Hot Ones Classic
1 t. 5 ml.
20
Salsa (Black Bean & Corn) Fox Valley
28 g. 2 T
35
Salsa (Medium) FrogRanch
32 g. 2 T
40
Salsa (Hot) FrogRanch
32 g. 2 T
40
Salsa Desert Pepper (not available 2024)
2 T 30 ml
4 T
160
Salsa (Medium) Que Pasa
60 g. ¼ cup (4 T)
210
Salsa (hot) Everland Organic
2 T 30 ml
4 T
260
Olives, Spanish Queen (Martini) Mezzeta
2
340
(cucumber) Pickles Bicks Garlic Dill Pickles “50% of the salt …”
60 g. 1 pickle
270
(cucumber) Pickles Bicks Sandwick Slices “tangy dill” slices “50% of the salt …”
30 g. 2 slices
135
“Low Sodium” Tomato Ketchup French’s
1 T. 15 ml.
40
Dry Beans
Cannellini (White Kidney) Everland Organic
28 g.
1 cup 160 g.
14.4
White Kidney Walmart “Great Value”
35 g. ⅕ cup
1 cup 175 g.
0 ?
Romano Walmart “Great Value”
35 g. ⅕ cup
1 cup 175 g.
0 ?
Produce (raw/fresh)
Cabbage, green USDA FoodData Central
100 g.
18
Tomato USDA FoodData Central
123 g. 1 medium
6.2
Tomato, diced USDA FoodData Central
180 g. 1 cup
9
Fruit & Veg, Processed
Tomatoes, Sun-dried Turkish, ready to Eat San Remo
15 g. 3 pieces
314
Tomatoes, Sun-dried in oil Unico
30 g. 5 pieces
300
Tomatoes, canned, diced; no salt added Western Family “Only Goodness”
125 ml 1/2 cup
10
Tomatoes, canned diced, no salt added Unico
125 ml 1/2 cup
5
Soup & Broth
Vegetable Broth No salt added Campbell
250 ml 1 cup
15
Cheese
Velveeta Process Cheez Kraft
30 g. Cube
450
Gouda (Dutch, sold in wedges or wheels) Several brand names
30 g. Cube
320
Emmental (Swiss or French, sold in blocks) Several brand & retailer names
30 g. Cube
varies 30 to 60
Swiss, sliced Castello brand
18 g. 1 slice
60
Swiss, sliced Cracker Barrel brand (a Lactanis brand)
My Zojirushi Virtuoso model BB-PAC20 bread machine stopped working on June 27, 2022. The pan would not even seat on the drive connectors in the machine. One of the drive shafts was seized. The pan was already loaded with unmixed ingredients for a light rye bread. I dumped the ingredients into the bowl of my stand mixer, mixed the loaf, and baked it. I set the oven to 350 ℉. I guessed time, and kept baking until the loaf was done. It had not mixed and risen properly, but it was edible.
Victoria was on the third day of high temperatures although it was not terribly hot in July, like the summer of 2021 had been.
Replacing the Pan
The drive shafts are integral to the pan. I could not see a way to remove the shaft, the bearing and the seals. This is the same with most or all bread machines. The shaft and bearing were not available as repair parts. A user can replace the pan but service for shafts and bearings is labour intensive and requires an inventory of repair parts.
In Canada, Zojirushi sells bread machines through select retailers. On Vancouver Island, the retail distributor is a store in Duncan BC, with an online presence. The retail/online store in Duncan advertised the newer Zojirushi Virtuoso Plus, model BB-PDC20, and a replacement pan for the BB-PDC20. It does not offer to sell a replacement pan for the BB-PAC20.
Zojirushi has a Canadian service/parts agency, Beaver Creek Electronics, in Richmond Hill, Ontario (in the Greater Toronto area). Beaver Creek Electronics was selling both:
8-BBP-P080 pans for the BB-PAC20 Virtuoso and
BX167810A-00 pans for the BB-PDC20 Virtuoso Plus.
It appears there are differences in the pans. I ordered the pan for the BB-PAC20 from Richmond Hill. It arrived July 5.
Warmed ingredients and warmed Dough Rising
The Zojirushi Virtuoso model uses the heating element to bake the ingredients, and also to:
warm the cold ingredients in a period of “rest” before the machine mixes and kneads the dough, and
raise the temperature in the pan to 91-95 °F (33-35 ºC) in the “rise” periods before baking when the leavening agent (yeast or chemical) is active and the dough is being inflated.
The latter can be compared to using a proofing box. a device to keep dough warmer than room temperature (during primary fermentation or proofing)
None of the bread machines on the market surveyed by Beth Hensperger in her Bread Lover’s Bread Machine Cookbook (2000) were said to have worked that way. The machines on the market at that time had timers setting the “rest” times. The dough was warm and moist after kneading (the action of kneading makes dough warm). The machine kept the heat and humidity by shelter inside the pan in the machine under a lid. The possibility of heating the unmixed ingredients and dough was not mentioned in that book. The development of a proofing box function involved different control chips and switches. It is a feature on the Zojirushi Virtuoso, the Viruoso Plus, and other modern machines. I think it was a feature on my Panasonic, although it was/is not discussed in the Panasonic material. I don’t know if a heated “rest”has become common or standard. I haven’t researched this.
Timed warm fermentation is a feature when the machine is used to produce a predictable loaf in the set time. Artisan bakers extend and delay fermentation by mixing pre-ferments, and by refrigerating pre-ferments and doughs.
Loading the Bread Machine
The Zojirushi machines take fluids first, at the bottom of the pan. I refined my routine to load ingredients that dissolve in water or suspend in water before the flour: salt, sugar, honey, molasses, maple syrup, milk, milk powder and butter. I began to use table salt instead of kosher salt. As I have been measuring by weight, this has not made a difference in results. Kosher salt has larger crystals and can be used to replace table salt when measured by weight. Both kinds of crystals are small enough that they dissolve in water during the rest and mix/knead phases in a bread machine. I separate the yeast by putting the yeast on top of the flour, so that it is not affected by the salt in water until the machine mixes the ingredients.
Bread machine manuals warn against using a delayed-start timer with milk products, because of the risk of spoilage. I rarely set a delayed-start timer on my bread machine.
Recipes
I stopped trying to put recipes online. I put my recipes into spread sheets that showed ingredients by weight and volume, and allowed for calculation of Bakers’ ratio, sodium content, and other details. This has allowed me to work on how much salt to use to get acceptable gluten development, and how much yeast and water are necessary to get a dough that flows, rise and springs without ballooning, collapsing or developing a dimpled or cratered top crust.
Mixing/Kneading
Effort and Costs
I haven’t hand mixed and kneaded, or used a stand mixer (or made no-knead bread) much since I began to make bread in a bread machine. The bread machine makes good sandwich bread, if I get the flour, water, salt and yeast right. The bread machine and pan do not require the cleaning that mixing bowls and tools require.
I had, at one time, a home kitchen Kitchen Aid stand mixer with a 7 quart bowl. I did not use it much. It is a specialty appliance, marketed as if all home cooks need one. Its main job is mixing and kneading bread dough.
I have a Bosch Compact stand mixer. Like other Bosch mixers, it is a multi-function device that powers a food processor, a blender and other powered accessories. It is smaller than the machines made by other manufacturers for American consumers. It has a 4 quart bowl, which is supposed to be big enough to mix and knead dough with 8 cups of flour – enough for two 9 inch x 5 inch loaves baked in oven baking pans. The motor is rated at 400 watts. Bosch’s larger (6.5 quart bowl, 18 cups flour capability) Universal stand mixer has been down graded by American Underwriters Laboratory from 800 watts to 500 watts.
Oven baking, summer 2022
The first hot spell ended the day the bread machine broke this happened. I only tried a few oven loaves on cool days. I found the dough rose slowly, and did not rise after I had put dough in bread pans. I wondered what was causing the results:
my low yeast/low salt approach,
my kitchen was just too cool those days,
I was not giving the dough time, and/or
I handle dough roughly.
There were several more hot days in August and early September. I avoided oven baking. I thought I would experiment in the fall and winter.
Vital Wheat Gluten
Before the pandemic, it was possible to buy vital wheat gluten (“VWG”) in grocery stores in Victoria. Some stores stocked a brand milled by Millstream Natural Foods. Others stocked Bob’s Red Mill brand Vital Wheat Gluten. I can’t find Millstream. That supplier may have ceased offering it. The stores in Victoria that used to sell Bob’s VWG no longer offer VWG; Bob’s stopped offering the product under that name and now offers “Gluten Flour” which is its new name for VWG. For a few months neither version of the product was in stores in Victoria. VWG is still being milled and marketed.
Sodium
Less is better
The baked bread sold in stores and bakeries is high in sodium due to the amount of salt used in baking, and due to sodium in some other baking ingredients including baking soda, baking powder, milk and powdered milk. Home baked bread is high in sodium due to the amount of salt in most recipes. Bread machine bread is high in sodium, if baked with standard recipes.
A 1.5 lb. medium bread machine recipe for lean white (“French”) bread or for white sandwich bread may specify 1.5 tsp. salt and 2 tsp. instant yeast (the yeast may be similar to 2.75 tsp of active dry yeast). Both require 417 g. bread flour (3 cups). The water requirements will be different, but in a range from 237 g. (1 cup) to 1.5 cups.
A 1.5 lb. medium bread machine recipe for a multigrain loaf with bread flour and whole wheat flour may also specify 1.5 tsp salt but the yeast may be higher than 2 tsp. instant yeast and the water and water based fluid will be higher.
A 1.5 lb medium recipe for a pure whole wheat loaf may specify 1.5 tsp. salt and 3 tsp. (1 Tbsp.) instant yeast. It may specify more than 3 cups of flour and 1.5 cups of water.
Each recipe may require or suggest a different program, and the mixing/kneading programs vary between machine brands and models. The set time for mixing/kneading, primary fermentation, bench rise and baking vary.
1.5 tsp of salt is 8.5 g. This amount will contribute 3,360 mg. of sodium to a loaf. Assuming 20 slices per loaf and 2 slices per sandwich, a sandwich will contain 336 mg. of sodium. While 336 mg. sounds ok, 4 sandwiches in a day means 1,344 mg. before counting any sodium from any other food. This makes it hard to restrict sodium consumption to
I have made bread with 50%, 33% and 25% of the salt in a standard recipe bread a few changes in crumb and the taste of the bread.
There are a few recipes for no-salt bread and no-salt bread machine bread online and in specialized recipe books.
I tried recipes for
a medium bread machine loaf (for a modern Zojirushi Virtuoso Plus model) that uses equal portions of whole wheat flower and bread flour with less than 1¼ tsp. active dry yeast for a 2 lb. large loaf 1converted to instant yeast, scaled to a medium loaf, and converted to metric weight 3 g., zero salt, and 1 Tbsp. of vinegar;
a low salt medium bread machine loaf that uses 313 g. of bread flour and rye flour, with 1/2 tsp salt and 1.5 tsp. instant yeast
a zero-salt medium bread machine loaf that uses bread flour and 2.16 g. (75 tsp.) instant yeast.
The zero-salt loaves worked.
The results contradict the rule of thumb I have been following for reducing salt and yeast.
I prefer low-salt bread to zero-salt.
Instant yeast
I used SAF Red instant yeast until I had used up a 454 g. (1 lb.) bag in 2021. I had tried to weigh and average 1 tsp. samples. I thought 1 tsp. SAF Red instant yeast weighed 2.8 g., but sources said the standard for instant yeast was 3.12 or 3.15 g. I purchased a small bag of instant yeast (a store brand) locally. It appeared to weigh 3.2 g. per tsp. I ordered another bag of SAF Red and tried to verify what 1 tsp. weighed to check on my recipes.
Reduction formula
The rule suggested by Beth Hensperger in the Bread Lover’s Bread Machine Cookbook (“BLBMC”), derived from a Bakers’ percentage weight based calculation, is to reduce salt and yeast proportionately by weight is a rule of thumb. It works with bread flour loaves, although there must be some yeast to make leavened bread. The BLBMC rule starts to produce loaves that do not flow and rise enough – the dough is not fermenting enough or is losing gas – when whole wheat flour or rye flour are used with bread flour.
I reconsidered my approach to how much yeast and water to use to balance medium loaves. It is matter of a few tenths of a gram.
Bread has some sodium without salt, but the main source of sodium is salt. Humans can taste salt but cannot know how, by taste, much salt is in their food, or how much sodium they are consuming. The reasons that too much salt makes food taste bad but a small amount improves flavour have not been explained by anatomical research on the human sensory organs. (“salt … enhances the taste of other foods … making them more palatable and relatively sweeter”, Salt enhances flavour by suppressing bitterness, Nature, Vol. 387, Issue 6633, pp. 563 (1997)).
Salt contains 39.3% sodium by mass. 1 tsp. of table salt weighs 5.7 grams, and contains 2,240 mg. of sodium.
Sodium is a micro-nutrient. It is necessary to metabolism, in small amounts. The minimum physiological requirement for sodium is between 115 and 500 milligrams per day depending on sweating due to physical activity, and whether the person is adapted to the climate” according to the papers cited in the Wikipedia article Sodium in Biology.
1,200 to 1,500 milligrams per day intake for sodium is adequate. On average, people in the USA consume 3,400 milligrams of sodium per day, an amount that promotes hypertension. The American government has advised that the average adult person should not consume more that 2,300 milligrams of sodium per day. The American Heart Association recommends the USDA recommendation should be 1,500 mg. per day. The World Health Organization sets the level of 1,500 mg. per day.
Bread baked with salt or a high sodium chemical leavening agent cannot be purchased in a grocery store or even a small bakery. Commercial bakers may have departed from the industrial standard of adding salt to dough in the amount of 1.8 to 2 % of the flour, by weight, but will not explain the process to wholesale buyers or retail consumers. The amount of sodium in a “serving” may be on a Nutrition Facts label if the bread is packaged for retail sale.
The BC chain Thrifty’s (a branch of the Canadian national chain Sobeys) had a sodium free whole wheat loaf before 2019, but it disappeared from the stores.
Sodium Sources – Bread Ingredients
Minor
Wheat flour, yeast, vital wheat gluten and cider vinegar contain small amounts of sodium, according to samples in the USDA FoodData Central database:
Wheat flour has 3 mg. sodium per 100 grams – 3 cups of flour in a typical medium loaf weighs over 400 g. and has 10-12 mg. sodium;
Instant Yeast has 75 mg. sodium per 100 grams – 3 grams of instant yeast has 2 mg. sodium;
Vital Wheat gluten has 8 mg. in 1 Tbsp. (8 grams);
Cider Vinegar has .77 mg. sodium per tablespoon.
Milk, buttermilk, cheese, eggs and other ingredients used in baking bread have sodium. The yeast used to leaven bread (or the coatings used to preserve yeast) has sodium.
Food consumed with bread contributes sodium – e.g. butter, margerine, mayonnaise, mustard, prepared meat, pickles, mustard, spreads, jams etc. Nutrition Facts labels, required to be accurate to nearest gram, will claim 0 sodium. USDA FoodData Central tables may show as little as 1 mg. in 100 gram units.
Salt
Salt is an element of most bread leavened with yeast (including leaven made from a sourdough or other starter). Salt is often used in recipes made with chemical leavening agents which include sodium. Dough made with a chemical leavening agent are mixed but not kneaded.
Salt is the major source of sodium in bread. The accepted standard for yeasted bread, in industrial baking and for recipe writers in the late 19th century, the 20th century, and the early 21st century has been salt in the ratio of 1-2% of the flour by weight. The reasons for this ratio may have been explained somewhere. The ratio was established as industrial and home baking evolved, before scientific experiments on the role of sodium were performed, and scientific theories were published. The ratio was established when salt become an affordable commodity, at a time when the health effects of sodium were not known.
Bread recipes for home bakers can be assumed to be refer to table salt with standard crystal size and to refer to manufactured marked measuring spoons, leveled off.
Salt in a bread recipe for home bakers is frequently (almost always):
1½ tsp. – i.e. 8.6 g. in a 3 cup recipe for a 1½ lb. medium loaf. Few medium loaf recipes exceed 8.6 grams of salt per loaf;
2 tsp. in a 4 cup recipe for a 2 lb. large loaf.
This ratio became established when industrially produced bread became the standard by which people recognized palatable bread.
For volume measurement for small batches, ½ tsp. (2.85 grams) of table salt for 1 cup of wheat flour – whether bread flour, all-purpose flour or whole wheat flour is standard. Converting to weight, this matches the commercial practice.
The sodium in a loaf, or a slice, can estimated, assuming 1 loaf yields 18 slices. The daily sodium intake by eating 8 slices (4 sandwiches) a day, made with bread made with salt in the ratio of salt in amount stated in a medium loaf, without taking other sodium sources into account:
Salt tsp.
Salt grams
Sodium per medium loaf milligrams (mg.)
Sodium per slice, mg.
Sodium mg. 8 slices daily
½
2.9
1,120
62.2
498
¾
4.3
1,680
93.3
746
1
5.7
2,240
124.4
996
1¼
7.1
2,800
155.6
1,245
1½
8.6
3,360
186.7
1,493
1¾
10
3,920
217.8
1,742
2
11.4
4,480
248.8
1,992
Baking Soda & Baking Powder
Baking soda, also known as sodium bicarbonate, is used in baking as a chemical leaving agent. Baking soda has some other uses in cooking, and several other uses. It is also used as an ingredient in manufacturing baking powder. Some nonyeasted baking recipes use both baking powder and baking soda. 1 tsp. of baking soda has 1,246 mg. of sodium. A medium loaf of a typical soda bread will have at least 1 tsp. of baking soda.
Baking powder is a chemical leavening agent used in baking. It has less sodium than baking soda, but is still a significant source.
There are sodium-free substitutes for the chemical leavening agents, available for sale online through outlets such as Healthy Heart Market:
a baking soda substitute called Energ-G, manufactured by Energ-G Foods Inc., Seattle, Washington, USA. It is made with calcium carbonate. It is
a baking powder substitute called Featherweight manufactured by Hain Pure Foods, Boulder, Colorado, USA. It is made with calcium carbonate.
Avoiding sodium means eating less bread or eating bread made with less sodium. Low sodium yeast bread involves using less salt.
Calculating sodium in bread
The sodium in a loaf of bread can be determined by measurement and calculation. Weigh salt, baking soda, baking powder, milk, milk powder, eggs and other ingredients that contain sodium – even consider flour and yeast – and apply standard factors to get sodium content. I have been adding notes on the amount of sodium in baking ingredients to my baking ingredient table, appended at the end of this post. I refer to those notes and calculate the amount of sodium in the ingredients of a loaf of bread.
A loaf baked in a pan 9 inches long high can be sliced into 18 slices, each ½ inch thick. The amount of bread in a slice will depend on the area of the slice, which is dependent on its dimensions in the plane at a right angle to the length of the loaf. A large (2 lb.) loaf baked in a large pan (oven or long horizontal bread machine pan) will be 9 inches long, but differ in its other dimensions. A medium (1.5 lb.) loaf baked a large pan will weigh less, and have less salt, than a large loaf.
It is possible to estimate the amount of sodium in a slice of bread by dividing a loaf 9 inches long into 18 slices and counting slices. A person might eat 8 slices cut from a medium loaf 9 inches long per day, but less slices cut from a large loaf 9 inches long.
I have columns in spreadsheets for my regular bread recipes, with columns for the ingredients for medium loaves, for quantities, and for calculation (e.g. B%).
I have a column of cells for:
the Na mg. (sodium, in milligrams) in each ingredient in a medium loaf, and
calculation cells for
total Na mg. per medium loaf,
Na mg. per slice (loaf ∕18) and
daily consumption (slice x8).
Bread
Flour & water
Flour, water, salt and yeast are normal ingredients in bread, regardless of how it is mixed, kneaded and baked. Once yeast or salt has been mixed with water, a baker cannot go back. When dough is worked in bakery, the baker can add water or flour during kneading to get the dough wetter or drier and affect texture. A baker has some control of time and and the conditions where the dough is held as it ferments and rises.
Yeast
Breads (except some flatbreads and crackers) require flour, water and a leavening agent – usually bakers yeast. Yeast affects rising time, loaf shape and size, crumb structure (regular with small spaces or large irregular spaces), flavor, loaf spring, and the amount of time it takes to prepare and bake a loaf. Yeast can be controlled by measurement and choice of yeast, and by taking time. Dough rises faster with more yeast. The additional yeast costs more and affects the taste of the bread. The right amount of yeast is vital knowledge for any baker.
During the 20th century, wet yeast cakes were manufactured, but superceded by dry yeasts. First, there were active dry yeasts. Then active dry yeast became more active, and the coating changed. Late in the 20th century dry yeast was improved and evolved into instant yeast and other very similar products with new names – Rapid-Rise, Quick Rise, Bread Machine. It is all dried, coated, bakers’ yeast. Active Dry yeast measurement for recipes that call for active dry yeast have to be converted for instant yeast if a user wants to substitute an instant yeast.
Salt
Zero Salt
Leaving salt out can reduce some of the expense, time and effort of making bread. Flavour can be ignored if the bread simply provides bulk and starch. This can depend. The absence of salt it less noticed in the context of a highly flavoured meal.
Salt is not required in roti or equivalent unyeasted flatbreads in South Asia, many other flatbreads.
Salt has been observed to affect dough and bread for centuries. Bakers, millers and other industrial actors involved in bread making developed recipes and processes, and developed industrial science. In the 19th and 20th centuries industrial baking scientists and academic food scientists pursued questions that concerned them. Some of their research has been published publicly, and become known. Bakers used salt to improve their products when salt mines began to produce inexpensive salt for the markets in Europe.
Salt is an ingredient in most recipes for leavened bread. Italian Pane Toscano (Tuscan Bread). Pane Toscano is a rare exception. It is known by a nickname that translates to “tasteless bread”.
Food Writing
Food writing for bakers and for the general public has tended to focus on cooking methods, recipes and taste. This informationcan be vague about scientific detail.
Some academic science affected baking and food processing – the modern science of microbiology was started by Louis Pasteur’s 19th century work. The science explaining the chemistry and biochemistry of baking did exist until the 19th and 20th centuries, and has changed.
The cooking/baking writer Beth Hensperger wrote, explaining the role of salt in bread baking for home bakers and bread machine users at the end of the 20th century:
Salt is a flavor enhancer and plays a role in controlling the activity of yeast. … salt is optional in bread but a lack is very noticeable in the finished flavor. Too much salt, on the other hand, leaves a bitter taste and can inhibit yeast activity. Too little salt leaves a flat taste and can cause the dough to feel slightly slack in the kneading. …
Beth Hensperger, The Bread Bible, 1999
… the little bit [of salt] that most recipes call for acts as a stabiliser so that the yeast does not overferment. It helps to condition and toughen the protein strands so that they do not break easily during the rising process and the dough expands smoothly.
….
Without the right amount of salt, the dough will rise too fast. This especially true in the environment of the bread machine, which is warm and very hospitable to the yeast.
Beth Hensperger, The Bread Lover’s Bread Machine Cookbook, 2000
Daniel DiMuzio, discussing artisanal baking, said:
Salt … strengthens the gluten bonds, … extending the amount of time necessary to develop gluten in dough. It also functions as an antioxidant, effectively reducing reducing the loss of caroten pigments and … flavor components during mixing.
Daniel T. DiMuzio, Bread Baking (2010), p. 51
Bakers, baking teachers and cookbooks warn that reducing salt changes bread, and downplay the health effects:
Salt is added to bread dough at approximately 1.8 to 2% of the weight of flour. Sticking to this percentage ensures there is enough salt present in the dough to do its very important job. Once you start to decrease that amount, the quality of your bread starts to decline as well.
Generally, we advise bakers to not leave out salt entirely when making bread. Not only will your dough be slack and difficult to work with (the worst!), but the baked loaf will turn out bland and flavorless. The good news is, the amount of salt in the average slice of bread is actually very small, so it’s generally worth it to stick to the measurement called for in a recipe. …
….
Salt has four important functions in bread, all the way from kneading to eating. Most crucially, it:
Some bakers’ folk knowledge is contradictory. Does salt kill mold and opportunistic micro-organisms and make bread last longer? Does salt keep bread moist? Does salt promote the conditions under which mold and opportunisitic micro-organisms will infest and spoil bread?
Science
Dough
Emily Buhler addressed science and the hands-on experience of kneading dough in her practical and concise book in Bread Baking (2006, revised 2021). She explained what happens to wheat flour and water when they are mixed, with yeast (and salt) kneaded and baked.
Wheat flour, milled from ripe seed kernels, is mainly starch, containing complex sugar molecules and protein molecules. When flour is mixed with water, yeast and salt, the water molecules do not bond with the flour. Water, a polar solvent, surrounds and suspends rather than dissolving protein molecules. Bread dough is a colloid of proteins in water (this kind of colloid is a “sol”). Electrical attraction between positive charged atoms in the proteins and negatively charged oxygen atoms in water molecules holds the water molecules in a polar orientation.
Fermentation
Bakers have known for centuries that salt inhibits the rising of the dough (the fermention of the glucose by the yeast and the release of gas by the yeast). In the last couple of centuries, when industrial yeast was cultivated and processed into wet yeast cakes, the effect of salt was seen in a problem in handling wet yeast cakes; when a wet yeast cake is exposed to salt for enough time, the salt (salt is hygroscopic) can suck water molecules from the wet yeast. The yeast cake breaks down and many cells die; the diminished cake is too small to mix and ferment the dough effectively. The traditional view (in the 19th and 20th century sense of tradition) was that:
Dry (active or instant) yeast cells are invisibly tiny living single-celled fungi, dormant after being grown in a factory, processed and dried, A visible “grain” of dry yeast is a clump of dormant cells, mixed with nutrient and coating. The water in dough dissolves the clumps of instant yeast (also active dry yeast. The practice of putting active dry yeast in warm water before adding it to dough is still followed and recommended by many for home baking and bread machines).
The yeast releases enzymes that break down complex sugars in the starch to glucose, a simple sugar, which the yeast consume. The proteins bond to each other in water and form gluten. In anerobic fermentation the yeast produces alcohol and CO₂ (carbon dioxide), a gas. The gas is trapped in gluten,which makes the dough inflate and rise.
salt kills yeast, and
should be kept separate from yeast.
Salt kills yeast when there is an error in storage of ingredients of the timing of the mixing process. When dough is mixed, the salt is distributed and diluted in water.
Emily Buhler in Bread Baking (2006, revised 2021) addressed:
Yeast and Bacteria in sub-chapter 2.2 of the Bread Chemistry Basics chapter;
Fermentation in sub-chapter 2.3 of the Bread Chemistry Basics chapter;
Taste and Colour in sub-chapter 2.4 of the Bread Chemistry Basics chapter; and
What Happens to Bread in the Oven in sub-chapter 7.2 of the Proofing and Baking chapter.
The strains of bakers’ yeast grown by the corporate employees of the companies that make processed dry yeast – active or instant – break down enough of the starch in the flour to a simple sugar that yeast consumes. When yeast consumes simple sugar, it produces CO₂ gas that is trapped in the gluten, causing the dough to rise. The yeast, in anaerobic fermentation, also produces alcohol – the flavour effects of the alcohol produced by industrial bakers’ yeast are minor. Some other microorganisms break down alchohol and produce flavours but this often doesn’t happen within the time dough is kneaded and baked.
Salt inhibits yeast, wet or dry, according to several studies. Emily Buhler addressed Salt and fermentation in sub-chapter 2.9 of the bread science chapter of Bread Baking (2006, revised 2021). Salt dissolved in water releases ions (charged atoms) that affect the movement of water molecules through yeast cellular walls so that the net osmosis is that the cells shrink, crenating the yeast cell walls.
Gluten
When salt is left out, the bread will develop gluten “naturally” from the biochemical actions of the proteins in the flour in water (autolyze). Without salt, the gluten does not stretch as much.
Emily Buhler addressed Salt and Gluten in sub-chapter 2.10 of the bread science chapter of Bread Baking (2006, revised 2021) . She cites:
early 20th century work correlating salt to measured and observed characteristics of gluten,
mid 20th century work on the polarity (electrical charges) of amino acids,
work in the ’60s on proteins in solution, and
a 1977 paper on the effect of salt in proteins in solution.
Emily Buhler did not discuss vinegar, as such, in Bread Baking (2006, revised 2021).
A neutral, as opposed to a low pH (high acidity), or high pH (high basicity) solution affects “conformation” – unfolds or unpacks a twisted string of the molecules – of the gluten proteins. Pure water, pH 7, is neutral. Sea water, pH 7.5, is mildly basic. Salt in solution changes the conformation – a charged solution (with salt ions) shields charged sites on the protein and “tightens” the gluten. The salt affects the way the proteins respond to the mechanics of mixing and kneading.
Vinegar, with pH as low as 2.5, is acidic.
Crust Colour
The heat of the oven affects the production of gas by the yeast, and the escape of gas. In the first 10 minutes, the expansion of the heated gas, before the gas escapes, makes the loaf springs. Then the heat diffuses in the gas inside the loaf and bakes the interior of the loaf – the crumb. The yeast dies when the bread is baked, which does not harm the flavour of bread. Most of the starch in the flour becomes the crumb of the loaf.
The heat of the oven or bread machine dries the crust into the chewier or crisper crust. The colour is created by Maillard reactions which typically proceed rapidly from around 140 to 165 °C (280 to 330 °F). Many recipes call for a temperature high enough to ensure that a Maillard reaction occurs. At the crust, sugars and amino acids also react in the heat of the oven to form flavour molecules. The crust is not airtight. It lets C0₂ escape as the loaf bakes, and eventually lets water vapour escape from a baked loaf.
Reducing Salt
Baking
General
Dough needs to be leavened lift to rise. A zero-salt bread needs as much yeast as a loaf with the normal amount of salt. For instance: Beth Hensperger’s bread machine recipes for Tuscan Peasant Bread (or Pane Toscana) mix and knead a sponge. It seems to be a workable method of baking a rustic no-salt loaf. Her yeast measurement for this loaf is lower than her many conventionally salted bread machine loaves. This should be checked and and tested, depending on the machine used.
AHA & other
Some cookbooks and web sites offer bread recipes for persons with hypertension or health concerns. Some are by survivors or family. Some are sponsored by health care reformers. Some of these recipes are truly zero salt. Some have a pinch or as much as ½ teaspoon ( 2.8 grams) of salt.
The American Heart Association’s Low Salt Cookbook (4th ed.) has a zero salt recipe for a Whole Wheat bread, mixed and baked in a bread machine. It is a multigrain loaf (for a medium loaf, 1½ cups whole wheat flour, 1½ cups bread flour), milk and yeast. For a medium loaf, it prescribes 2½ tsp. (7 grams) active dry yeast. (It may take less yeast. Bread machines and programs very.) The crumb of this loaf is a bit irregular, and the absence of salt affects the taste
Tuscan Bread
Salt is not required in Italian Pane Toscano (Tuscan Bread), a lean bread made with flour, water, and yeast. It is mainly a white flour recipe (bread flour, high protein All-purpose, or All-purpose). There a recipes in different sizes with various methods and loaf sizes. Example: King Arthur Tuscan Bread. Beth Hensperger included a recipe for this bread in her baking cookbooks:
Tuscan Peasant Bread, The Bread Bible (1999) both
mixed with a mixer or by hand, and oven baked, and
a bread machine version;
Pane Toscana, The Bread Lover’s Bread Machine Cookbook (2000).
Beth Hensperger’s recipes have this bread made with a sponge to delay fermentation. She makes it more rustic by using some whole wheat flour, and enriches it slightly with a pinch of sugar.
Vinegar
Vinegar, like salt, inhibits microorganisms – such as yeast! It makes a solution acidic, which affects the “conformation” of the proteins that form the gluten. Vinegar is a mildly acetic aqueous solution of acetic acid. Adding vinegar to pure water dilutes the acid and produce a slightly acidic fluid. I don’t understand what happens when a small amount of mild acid is added to water containing salt. Salt dissolves in water. Salt water is a high pH fluid. It is “basic’.
Vinegar is produced by fermentation of fluids:
produced by crushing the fruits of grape vines, apple trees and other fruiting plants, or by soaking barley malt and other products of the grain of grasses;
wines and ciders that have been produced by fermentation of plants; and
fluids produced with alchohol distilled from fermented plants.
Slow methods are used in traditional vinegars; fermentation proceeds over a few months to a year. Slow fermentation allows for the accumulation of a nontoxic slime composed of acetic acid bacteria and their cellulose biofilm, known as mother of vinegar. Fast methods add mother of vinegar as a bacterial culture to the source liquid before adding air to oxygenate and promote the fastest fermentation. In fast production processes, vinegar may be produced in 1-3 days.
Fruit vinegars are made from fruit wines, usually without any additional flavoring. Apple cider vinegar is made from cider or apple must.
Wine vinegar is made from red or white wine, and is the most commonly used vinegar in Southern and Central Europe
Distilled vinegar (spirit vinegar in the UK, white vinegar in Canada) is produced by fermentation of distilled alcohol. The fermentate is diluted to produce a colorless solution of 5 to 8% acetic acid in water, with a pH of about 2.6. This is known as distilled spirit, “virgin” vinegar, or white vinegar, and is used in cooking, baking, meat preservation, and pickling, as well as for medicinal, laboratory, and cleaning purposes.
A cup (US volume unit) of vinegar weighs 240 grams. (A cup of pure water weighs 237 grams.) Vinegar is 5% acid and over 90% water. Cider vinegar and distilled (white) vinegar have little sodium according to USDA.
Type
Weight 1 Tbsp.
Water, 1 Tbsp.
Sodium mg.
Distilled
14.9 g.
14.1 g.
.298
Cider
14.9 g.
14 g.
.745
Web sites about baking have comments on vinegar, as of late 2022:
“Vinegar breaks down the proteins in bread dough, causing the gluten to tenderize. .. new – and … stronger – gluten networks form. This results in … a … rise in a shorter amount of time.
“Vinegar cuts down on flour oxidation, resulting in … moist crumb and a lightweight texture. …
“Vinegar is an organic acid … by adding vinegar to your dough, you can create impressive flavors in a shorter amount of time.
Vinegar reduces the pH level in your bread dough. … this fends off mold formation…”
“… it can make the dough more elastic, which can help it rise better and create a more consistent texture. It can also help to retard the growth of yeast, meaning that the bread will take a bit longer to rise but will be less likely to collapse after it’s been baked. Finally, the vinegar can help to create a slightly crisper crust.”
There is no history of hydrating dough with vinegar (using vinegar instead of water or other fluids). Some web material, published to pages, or posted to forums, attributes some effects, actions and results to the addition of a small amount of vinegar to the other ingredients of bread.
Someone started using vinegar to make the water acidic, and leaving out salt. I have not found material on the web to explain when this started or whether it was tested at scale in industrial bakeries.
The bread machine maker Zojirushi started to sell a bread machine with a “no-salt” program in 2018. Zojirushi uses cider vinegar in a recipe for a white sandwich bread for use in a “No Salt” program on its current Virtuoso Plus (a large loaf (2 lb. pan) model and its BB-SSC10 (small, 1 lb.) model.
A tablespoon (14.7 ml.) of cider vinegar has the same effect as 2 tsp. of salt in white sandwich bread on gluten, crumb and crust, in my Zojirushi Virtuoso BB-PAC20. 2¼ tsp. (11.1 ml.) of cider vinegar has the same effect as 1½ tsp. salt.
A tablespoon of vinegar adds only 1 Tbsp of water to a dough, and only adds tiny amount of acetic acid and biochemically significant elements, but it affects gluten and fermentation. It is powerful.
It is possible to measure with enough accuracy with measuring spoons. It is possible to measure vinegar by weight. Scales may go to the nearest gram; some go to the nearest .1 gram. Conversions:
Vinegar, Volume
1 cup
1 Tbsp.
2¼ tsp.
1 tsp.
Vinegar, Weight
239 g.
14.9 g.
11.2 g.
5 g.
Cider vinegar does not impart a bitter taste to bread. Vinegar lacks the flavour impact of salt.
Adjustments
Salt
A leading blog for home bakers observes:
… If you’re still looking to reduce the salt in your bread, however, it’s possible to do so successfully (to an extent).
Generally, you can reduce the salt by half without having any very noticeable changes to texture and browning.
If your bread tastes a bit bland, you can use herbs or spices to increase the flavor. Fresh chopped rosemary or caraway seeds are both very traditional ways to add flavor, but the options are really endless! Try experimenting with blends like Herbes De Provence or even Pizza Seasoning to jazz things up.
King Arthur Flour, Blog, Tips & Techniques, July 2020, Why is salt important in yeast bread?
A 50% reduction of salt works when the recipe, following the conventions of home baking, specifies 2 tsp. of salt for a large loaf or 1½ tsp. for a medium loaf. A medium loaf, baked with 1½ tsp. of salt, has at least 3,360 mg. of sodium. Reducing the salt by 50% reduces the sodium in a loaf to about 1,680 mg. of sodium. This is tolerable in terms of the gluten and the taste of the bread. If the recipe said 8.6 g. (1½ tsp.), I will reduce salt by 50% by weight. I aim to reduce salt to 4.3 grams.(¾ tsp.) for a medium loaf, or less. 4.3 grams.(¾ tsp.) gets good gluten development to bake a medium loaf in a Zojirushi bread machine. It should be enough salt for a medium loaf under any other baking method if the dough is mixed and kneaded
It is necessary to consider how much sodium is being avoided when salt is taken out of a recipe. Where a recipe uses 1 tsp. (5.7 g.) of salt for 3 cups of flour, I can reduce use 75% of the recipe amount of salt to get the same amount of sodium per loaf/slice/serving as by reducing 1½ tsp. of salt by 50%. If a recipe required less salt than 1½ tsp. for a medium loaf, I may reduce salt by a low amount. I have tried reduction from 1 tsp. (5.7 g.) to ¾ tsp. (4.3 g.) or ⅝ tsp. (3.6 g.). Many medium loaves made with ⅝ tsp. (3.6 g.) salt and a suitable adjusted amount of instant yeast knead and bake well in a Zojirushi Virtuoso using the Basic Bake and Bake whole wheat programs, and in the Home made program for European bread
Yeast
Salt slows fermentation in dough. Salt also makes gluten strands longer and assists a dough to rise. The reduction in gas production is outweighed by more extensible gluten. Reductions of yeast affect the production of the gas which stretches the dough. Yeast is required to leaven any yeasted bread. Yeast can be reduced in from the levels stated in recipes when salt is reduced. The right amount of yeast varies according to the recipe and other factors:
The machine;
The program;
The salt and other sodium in the dough.
Dough needs to be hydrated and leavened to rise and flow.
Bread Machines
Machines
While many bread machine recipes seem to be for “any” bread machine, there are no generic recipes. Machines have significant differences in
pan size,
pan shape, mixing action,
programs, and
features.
Features, such as heating the baking chamber and pan while a mixed dough is rising (i.e. fermenting), are not found in all machines, and affect the amount of yeast a user should use.
Bread machines run in fixed time intervals set in the programs written by the manufacturer’s engineers. A closed device is not subject to interventions when the program is running. Techniques used in conventional baking are not easily used with bread machines. Bread machines are convenience appliances. They make palatable bread. A machine user can make some kinds of changes in attempting to make a recipe again: setting the device to use a different program, or adjust the recipe.
Beth Hensperger’s book The Bread Lover’s Bread Machine Cookbook said:
… In the presence of salt the dough rises at a slower rate and the salt strengthens the gluten. Loaves with no salt collapse easily.
If you are on a salt-restricted diet and wish to reduce the salt in a recipe, be sure to reduce the yeast proportionately, or use the recipe amount of lite salt. Without the right amount of salt, the dough will rise too fast. This is especially true in the environment of the bread machine …
Beth Hensperger, The Bread Lover’s Bread Machine Cookbook, 2000, p. 15, p. 290
The suggestion of using “lite” is unclear. She may be referring to the branded product by that names made by Morton, a blend of table salt and potassium chloride. There are salt substitutes made with calcium chloride or potassium chloride sold as “NoSalt” or “Salt-Free” that can be added to some foods. These can to leave soups or stews tasting ok to human senses. There is no basis for saying that salt substitutes affect the activity of yeast or gluten formation in bread dough, or the taste of baked bread. I have not located published test results or evidence.
The suggestion of reducing salt and yeast proportionately (by weight) is a rule of thumb that works, to a point. This rule seems to be reflected by some product offerings. Morton’s lite salt product has 290 mg of sodium per ¼ teaspoon serving while its regular table salt has 590 mg of sodium per ¼ teaspoon serving
Beth Hensperger introduced the topic of “What Can Go Wrong, and How to Fix It” at pp. 38-40 of The Bread Lover’s Bread Machine Cookbook. Many things can go wrong; the answers are not obvious.
Salt & Yeast
Salt
Salt can be reduced in bread machine recipes for 1½ lb. loaves that specify 1½ tsp. of salt to 4.3 g. (¾ tsp.), 3.6 g. (⅝ tsp.) or as little as 2.8 g. (½ tsp). This reduction has an effect on gluten which affects the texture of the crumb. It affects taste. The change is less noticeable in multigrain loaves, and loaves flavoured in some way. Salt in recipes with 3 cups of flour (for 1½ lb. loaves) can be reduced with little or no effect on gluten and the final baked crumb and crust.
Yeast
Yeast choice and measurement are important in bread machines. The yeast specified in any given generic recipe may be too much for some bread machines. A dough or loaf that balloons is messy, and can endanger the machine, the kitchen and the cook. Bread machine recipes are also determined by whether they can produce acceptable bread in a time frame that consumers/machine buyers will tolerate. If a recipe requires active dry yeast and a user wants to substitute an instant yeast, the yeast measurement should be converted for instant yeast.
If a recipe for a medium loaf says 8.6 g. (1½ tsp.) salt, and if the proportionate reduction rule was an exact rule, I would expect to reduce yeast by 50% by weight, but it isn’t that simple. Yeast can be reduced with low salt loaves. The rule of proportional reduction leads to bad results if the amount of yeast is not calculated correctly and measured correctly. That leaves a problem – how much more should yeast be reduced if salt it reduced.
Yeast measurement has to be adjusted for a machine’s mix/knead and rise phases. These vary. Some machines have a proofing box function – the pan is heated during rise phases. The length of the rise phases varies between machines and programs.
Recipes should have enough yeast to leaven the dough and rise in a specific machine without ballooning or overflowing a bread pan. For some machines or programs more than 1 tsp. of instant yeast for a 1½ lb. loaf is too much, regardless of salt and regardless of other ingredients that may inhibit fermentation. For any machine, set to a “Quick-Rise” program, more yeast is required that for a Regular or Basic Program. Too much yeast for a machine and a program will result in the dough or loaf ballooning or collapsing. Those problems can be fixed by adjusting yeast in a recipe leaving flour, water, salt and other ingredients unchanged.
The relevant features affecting hydration, gluten formation, yeast activity, fermentation, and rise are:
the protein in wheat flour,
the protein in other flour, such as rye flour,
the amount of high protein wheat flour and any vital wheat gluten,
the length of the mix/knead phase,
the mix/knead action,
the length of the Rise phases, and
warmed pan proofing box action in the Rise phases.
Vinegar
Zojirushi’s recipe for No-Salt bread (large loaf and small loaf), is nearly identical to Zojirushi’s Basic White Bread (large loaf or small loaf). It has no salt, and has some cider vinegar – ½ to 1 tablespoon, depending on the recipe size. Zojirushi’s recipe for No-Salt bread works in a basic or regular baking program – the program used for enriched sandwich bread, made with bread flour, sugar, milk or milk powder and butter. In 2021, Marsha Perry, writing as the Bread Machine Diva said that the large (2 lb.) loaf version turned out well in a Zojirushi Virtuoso BB-PAC20 machine using the Basic Program (the BB-PAC20 does not have a No Salt program). The photos at the Bread Machine Diva site suggest the crumb is slightly different when the recipe is baked in two different Zojirushi machines.
I tried the recipe, scaled for a medium loaf; the medium loaf works in a Zojirushi Virtuoso BB-PAC20. This recipe should work in any Zojirushi model with a large pan – Supreme, Virtuoso, etc. The recipe will work in other machines in a regular or basic baking program, but may require a little less or more yeast than a Zojirushi machine. The recipe is sensitive to measurement of the ingredients, including the vinegar.
Zojirushi Bread Machines
General
In working out a recipe that will not balloon or collapse pay attention to : the type of flour, the amount of salt, the bread machine course (program) and the amount of yeast.
It is often necessary to try out some variations, changing some quantities by small measured amounts to see if a change makes the bread better by some parameter.
Many recipes for medium loaves baked in bread machines may require 1½ tsp. of salt for 3 cups of wheat flour, but recipes vary. Some of Zojirushi’s recipes for medium loaves baked in the BB-PAC20, in its machine manual and on the web accept that ratio. Generic recipes for similar breads may use 2 tsp. (6.2 grams) of instant yeast for a medium loaf. Other Zojirushi recipes use less salt – noted in the table below. The yeast in recipes in the manual for the salt stated in the recipe. (The web links lead to large loaves. I am using the medium loaf recipe in the printed manual.) I am converting yeast from Active Dry, used by Zojirushi in it recipes for the BB-PAC20 to instant yeast:
*The “home made” course, given in the recipe in the Zojirushi BB-PAC20 Virtuoso manual, is identical to the European course (i.e. program) of the Zojirushi BB-CDC20 Viruoso Plus. It has 2 rise phases, like a Quick course but the rises are long – 35 minutes and 50 minutes. The Crusty French recipe involves programming a “Home-made” program in a BB-PAC-20 Virtuoso or a BB-CEC20 Home Bakery.
Zojirushi also publishes recipes for 2 lb. “large” loaves with 1½ tsp of salt. These scale to 1⅛ tsp. (6.4 g.) salt for 1.5 lb. loaves.
In working out a recipe that will not balloon or collapse pay attention to:
the type of flour,
the amount of salt,
the bread machine course (program) and
the amount of yeast.
It is often necessary to try out some variations, changing some quantities by small measured amounts to see if a change makes the bread better by some parameter.
Yeast
Initial General Rule
The Zojirushi BB-PAC20 requires less yeast for a recipe that uses a regular yeasted baking program, (i.e. the Regular Basic course or the Regular Wheat course) than is used in a recipe from Bread Lover’s Bread Machine Cookbook, or most generic bread machine recipes. These courses have a Rise period (programmed as 3 consecutive periods) in a heated pan. A Zojirushi BB-PAC20 needs about 65% of the instant yeast in a generic recipe used in these courses. This is a target for the amount of yeast to raise a fully salted loaf. I make this initial adjustment for all recipes in those categories except recipes from Zojirushi for my Zojirushi BB-PAC20.
Zero Salt and/or Vinegar
For the Zojirushi Virtuoso BB-PAC20:
3.8 grams of instant yeast, used to make a sponge for Tuscan Bread, will raise a zero salt dough for a 1.5 lb. medium loaf;
4.0 grams of instant yeast will raise a no-salt dough for a 1.5 lb. medium loaf, in the American Heart Association whole wheat recipe.
The Zojirushi “No Salt” bread, made with vinegar, sugar and milk powder is a soft sweet sandwich bread. The crumb is fluffy. It is similiar to other sandwich breads – a bit softer.
The yeast requirement for this sandwich loaf, made with vinegar instead of salt, is about 3.1 grams of instant yeast (1 tsp.)
The recipe is sensitive to measurement of the ingredients, including the vinegar.
I will try to bake other recipes with vinegar instead of salt. I will check this method with other enriched sandwich breads, experimenting with changing the enrichments – sugar, milk powder etc. It will take time.
Lean Breads – 50% Salt
A Zojirushi BB-PAC20 will bake a crusty French style white loaf – a lean bread – a “home made” (custom) program for that style of bread. A medium loaf requires 3 cups of bread flour.
Ingredient
Factory
My test 1
Salt
5.7 g. (1 tsp)
4.3 g. (¾ tsp)
Instant Yeast
3.1 g (4.2 g. (1½ tsp) active dry)
2.2 g.
I have used the Zojirushi BB-PAC20 to bake medium loaves of Beth Hensperger’s (of the BLBMC) recipe for Chuck Williams Country French Bread, a lean bread. The BLBMC recipe (full salt) uses 8.6 g. I make it with 3.6 g. of salt in the Regular Bake program. Yeast depends on what course/program I use:
Regular Basic course, with 2.0 g. of instant yeast;
Home made course for crusty lean bread. This bread, in the shorter Home made program, needs about 3.1 g. or 3.2 g. of instant yeast for a loaf with 50% salt (4.3 g.). It develops a dimple (which might be called a crater) with 3.6 g. of instant yeast, but not with 3.2 g. of instant yeast.
50% Salt – Regular Basic and Regular Wheat
I will reduce yeast below the Zojirushi target when I make a salt reduction for a generic recipe. It may be 50% of the yeast that remains after the initial adjustment (not the yeast in the recipe), but it depends on the amount of salt.
Where a recipe recipes only ½ tsp. of salt for a medium loaf (e.g. the AHA low salt recipe for a medium size light rye loaf) I use the recipe amount of salt and 2.7 or 2.8 g. of instant yeast.
When salt has been reduced to 4.3 grams (¾ tsp.) for a medium loaf, 2.1 to 2.4 grams of instant yeast will leaven the dough to get good rise and flow without collapse or “crater” in the Regular Basic and Basic Wheat programs. Using less yeast can produce collapse or “crater”, or issues of size and shape. Using more yeast may produce a loaf that ruptures.
A Zojirushi BB-PAC20 (or another modern Zojirushi model with a 2 lb. pan) can make an acceptable medium loaf of bread with 4.3 g. of salt and 30-35% of the instant yeast in a generic recipe with bread flour and with bread flour and whole wheat flour.
100% whole wheat flour bread is close, but not exactly the same.
Putting rye flour in the mix changes the yeast requirements.
Other Adjustments
Some generic (e.g. BLBMC) bread machine recipes have problems that show up with a Zojirushi machine. It may be as little as a few tablespoons of water. These problems can be fixed by comparing a problem recipe with successful recipes.
Baking Ingredients
I find it convenient to have baking ingredients in a spreadsheet saved on a device in my possession – a desktop in a room near the kitchen. I have access when the device is on, without relying on Internet connections and the cloud.
The book Spoon-Fed by British physician and writer Tim Spector discusses the diets of people in developed countries. Spoon-Fed puts a great deal of information into a short book. It discusses a number of “myths” about food and nutrition. A myth is a story that many people have learned to believe, but not a scientifically proved factual story. The myths are the foundation of public health rules, dietary recommendations and beliefs about food. The myths are the foundation of public health rules, dietary recommendations and beliefs about food. Spoon-Fed treats eating and digestion as complex biological processes that cannot be explained by instinct, culture, culinary tradition, common sense or known science. It fails to reconcile some inconsistencies.
There is a chapter pointing out that there is no component in the education of medical doctors addressing nutrition, implying that medical doctors, unless they work on the problems, are not experts on nutrition, food and diets. There is a chapter which reviews some of the arguments of The Diet Myth, points out that digestion, and weight gain are individual, and cautions against believing that there are rules that apply to all people and all foods. In The Diet Myth, Dr. Spector explained why weight loss through calorie restriction and exercise is difficult by the data of weight loss in twin studies, and to the science of calories, based on the 1944-1945 Minnesota Starvation Experiment. Like The Diet Myth, Spoon-Fed suggests that food science has not absorbed the presence of an active microbiome in the human digestive tract.
Some chapters talk about how food is collected, processed, and sold.
The chapter on the myths of fish addresses the marketing of fish raised in fish farms, the standards for farmed fish, the marketing of wild fish harvested recklessly, and outright fraud in the way fish is misdescribed in some restaurants.
There are chapters on the myths of avoiding animal fat, reducing calory consumption or exercising to reduce weight, avoiding gluten, avoiding nuts, sports drinks, fruit flavoured drinks, and the quality, safety and convenience of bottled water. Some involve the factors affecting purchasing and processing food, including sports drinks, flavoured water, bottled water, candy, snacks and fast food.
Spoon-fed notes that the food industry, dominated by financial interests, and focussed on reducing foods into packaged commodities, fabricated with processed ingredients, and processed to taste good, package well, and sell. The food industry has convinced people try to make up for “missing” ingredients by taking supplements and seeking following diet fads, to combat obesity by restricting calories and by exercise. This has made the food industry financially successful in selling flavoured junk. Dr. Spector suggests that individuals might eat more vegetables, recommend diversity of diet, endorses Michael Pollan’s advice in his books In Defence of Food (2008) and The Omnivore’s Dilemma (2006), and suggests avoiding consuming highly processed foods. He also endorses the public health advocacy of Marion Nestle and others on measures against sugary, artificially sweetened and carbonated beverages and disposable containers.
Other chapters discuss the rise and fall of beliefs about fat, calories, weight loss theories, supplements and diets. These are generally informative. Some chapters invite readers to consider changing what they eat, and are more controversial.
Spoon-Fed favours eating fermented foods because they contain nutrients produced by microorganisms and may contain beneficial and viable microorgamisms (unless the microorganisms have been killed off in the processing). Spoon-Fed favours food with some microflora or microfauna, although Dr. Spector is largely dismissive of the probiotic yogurt and the marketing claims made by the manufacturers of other highly processed food products. He is in favour of consuming fermented foods, including saurkraut and kimchi on the basis that fermentation can introduce health probiotic microorganisms. His views on probiotics may be more controversial than he implies. Fermented food with microorganisms is prepared in salted water (brine) as opposed to pickled in acidic vinegar. It is therefore salty.
Dr. Spector states that public health measures involving salt have not prevented the wide use of salt in food processing. The food industries have increased the consumption of salt, while concealing the amount of salt in processed food. He refers to studies suggesting that studies have failed to demonstrate adverse effects of high sodium levels in food on health. He explains that industrialized countries favour treating people with high blood pressure with medication to reducing salt use. He disagrees with the low sodium approach of the DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) diet, without a discussion of the issue.
Spoon-Fed carefully precise in supporting restrictions on alcohol consumption, while defending moderate alcohol consumption.
While it is dismissive of diet fads, it tends to be speculative about the benefits of some foods. It dismisses some public health information based on poor sampling and other statistical errors, and appears to encourage disrespect for all public health recommendations.
The title of Tim Spector’s 2015 book The Diet Myth refers to one “myth”. The book begans with an Introduction that discusses the author’s midlife health crisis when his blood pressure rose suddenly, and present an overview of his research into the modern diet. The Introduction identifies the problems of deciding “what is good or bad for us in our diets” and several misconceptions about food that impair discussion of food and diet, and sensible decisions by consumers. In his later book Spoon-Fed, he discusses many other misconceptions or myths about food science, appetite, differences between individual metabolism, diet and health.
The Diet Myth‘s first chapter introduces discusses some of the gut microbiota (part of the human microbiome) that process food consumed by humans by breaking it down, releasing nutrients that the human gut absorbs and metabolizes. In reviewing Dr. Spector’s, 2020 book Spoon-Fed, the English writer Bee Wilson said it contains an overview of many medical and scientific studies of genetics, microbiology, biochemistry and food:
The book’s main argument is that to find the best way of eating we need to ignore much of what we are told. … Spoon-Fed is a worthy successor to Spector’s earlier bestselling book, The Diet Myth, which focused on the powerful role that the microbes in our guts play in determining our health. This new book is broader, but he manages to distil a huge amount of research into a clear and practical summary that leaves you with knowledge that will actually help you decide what to add to your next grocery shop.
food science and popular writing has not absorbed the fact of the presence of an active microbiome in the human digestive tract,
the importance of a healthy and diverse gut microbiome,
the overuse of antibiotics and other medical errors that have harmed humans by affecting their microbiome,
medical and cultural practices that have contributed to the increasing incidence of food allergies. The book suggests that food science and popular writing has been inattentive to genetic variations of humans as affecting metabolism and interactions with food and microorganism.
The remaining 18 chapters discuss the topics addressed by the “Food Facts” labels used to disclose information about food: calories, fats, nutrients, and warnings, with reference to genetics and the microbiome.
The science of calories is based on the 1944-1945 Minnesota Starvation Experiment. Calorie-based thinking suggests that diets aimed at reducing weight or “curing” obesity should reduce the intake of calories. This has evolved into a proliferation of diet advice: avoiding all fats (or bad fats), avoiding carbohydrates. eating “paleo”, eating protein, eating “Mediterannean”, not eating cheese or nuts. The food industry dominated by corporate interests, is focussed on reducing foods into packaged commodities, processed to taste good, package well and sell. The food industry reduces food to “ingredients”. People try to make up for “missing” ingredients by taking supplements.
The book discussed the scientific “discovery” of “vitamins” with a brief reference to the illness known as beri-beri, caused by thiamine (vitaman B1) deficiency. One of the principal causes where the food supply is primarily “white” (milled or polished) rice is processing the rice:
Beriberi was known for millennia in Asia, but was not described by a European until the 17th century when Brontius in the Dutch East Indies reported the progressive sensorimotor polyneuropathy. The prevalence of beriberi increased greatly in Asia with a change in the milling process for rice in the late 19th century. In the 1880s, Takaki demonstrated the benefits of dietary modification in sailors, and later instituted dietary reforms in the Japanese Navy, which largely eradicated beriberi from the Japanese Navy by 1887. In 1889 Eijkman in Java serendipitously identified dietary factors as a major contributor to “chicken polyneuritis,” which he took to be an animal model for beriberi; the polyneuritis could be cured or prevented by feeding the chickens either unpolished rice or rice polishings. By 1901, Grijns, while continuing studies of beriberi in Java, suggested a dietary deficiency explanation for beriberi after systematically eliminating deficiencies of known dietary components and excluding a toxic effect.
….
By the 1950s synthetic forms of the vitamin were produced cheaply, allowing both therapeutic administration and prevention with food enrichment.
The use of polished rice was culturally and economically embedded – it was easier to cook and digest, and conserved the fuel needed to cook rice. This problem was not an exclusively pre-modern or Asian problem American and European scientists criticized the use of bleached white wheat flour to bake bread and other cereal products. The public policy response was to require that white flour be “enriched” with nutrients. The book also mentions studies demonstrating that agricultural products harvested in modern times contain less nutrients than the products harvested several decades earlier. The book does not refer to studies about the causes and consequences of this fact. One consequence is that vitamin products are marketed as necessary to supplement foods available to consumers in markets – and that supplements have become a huge industry
The idea of enrichming some processed food is embedded in public health policy, and supplements are embedded in culture. The book touches the issues with criticism of the scientific and industrial idea of “reducing” food to a mixture of ingredients, and with criticism of fad diets. Food science in the 19th century and the 20th century failed to addressed dangerous unknowns, and failed to warn against risky agricultural and food processing practices. Science is now not exploring the known unknowns, and public policy remains uninformed. This area can be developed further – although it was beyond the scope of Dr. Spector’s book.
The Diet Myth
suggests that food science, as discussed in the popular media, has been static,
suggests that individuals might eat more vegetables,
recommends diversity of diet and expressly and implcitly endorsies Michael Pollan’s advice to “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants” and much of what Michael Pollan wrote in his books In Defence of Food (2008) and The Omnivore’s Dilemma (2006), and
Pizza is a leavened flatbread, usually leavened with yeast. Like other bread, it is made with salt. A pizza made from scratch at a restaurant or at home can have more salt, processed cheese and processed meats than a person should eat.
Making pizza dough is similiar to making bread. A pizza crust can be made with flour, water, salt and yeast, and a little sugar or olive oil to enrich the dough. The dough will be a dough ball which will ferment (“rise”) and be flattened for baking. A dough ball to make a 10 inch thin crust pizza will be small, and have to be tenacious to stand up to rolling into a thin crust.
A pizza can be baked in a home oven, although no home ovens achieve the temperatures and conditions of the ovens used in restaurants.
Mark Bittman’s pizza dough recipe involves flour, water, salt, instant yeast and olive oil. His recipe uses 2 tsp. (11.4 grams) of salt, 1 cup of water (237 g.) & 3 cups of flour (408 g.) (B% hydration 58%). This recipe calls for 11.4 grams of salt in 650 g. of wet dough. The calculation of sodium per serving is not straightforward. 11.4 g of salt contains 4.56 g. of sodium (= 4,560 mg.) 650 g. of wet dough makes enough crust for 3 or 4 servings. Each serving would have 1,110 to 1,500 mg. of sodium. The RDA is 2,000 mg.
Mark Bittman recommends mixing and kneading in a food processor, which takes about half a minute, with some extra pulses. In a stand mixer, a yeasted dough can be mixed and kneaded in less than 10 minutes. He recommends letting it rise at room temperature, or more slowly in a refrigerator, before dividing, shaping a dough ball, wrapping and freezing. He suggests using a frozen ball within about a month.
Peter Reinhart has dough recipes in his pizza book, American Pie. His recipes use 1¾ cups of water (415 g.) & 5 cups of flour (680 g.) (B% hydration 61%) His recipes call for stand mixer or hand kneading – not in a food processor. He favours cold fermentation in a refrigerator. He says his doughs can be divided, shaped as dough balls, wrapped and frozen for up to 3 months.
Peter Reinhart, in American Pie, has a recipe to make 4 x 10 inch pre-baked crusts that can be kept frozen for 3 months. These are not thin crust pizzas.
Beth Hensperger has pizza dough recipes in The Bread Lover’s Bread Machine Cookbook for doughs for 2 x 12 inch thin crust pizzas, or 1 x 14 inch deep dish pizza. A pizza cannot be baked in a bread machine; bread machines mix and knead dough in a Dough program or cycle. Her basic recipe calls for US All purpose flour which is has less gluten than Bread flour (or Canadian All purpose flour) and makes a less tenacious dough. This is a recipe for a chewy regular or deep crust.
Recipe
Flour (Volume)
Flour (US oz.)
Flour g.
Water (Vol.)
Water g.
B%
Salt g.
Instant yeast g.
Basic
3.5 cups
16.625
471
1.33 cups
315
67%
8.6 (1.5 tsp.)
5.6 (2 tsp.)
A home cook can mix dough, divide it into balls and refrigerate or freeze dough balls for future use. A recipe that uses 3 cups of flour will make enough dough for a large pizza or 2 smaller pizzas, or 4 small or thin pizzas.
Some grocery stores sell pizza dough balls. These are warmed or thawed, shaped, topped and baked at home. The Holy Napoli brand distributed by a firm in Port Coquitlam is available in local stores, occasionally. The dough ball is 300 g., and contains 1.3 g. sodium, 72% of the RDA. Salt is crystallized sodium chloride, not pure sodium. A recipe for 300 g. of wet dough will, normally, require 3.3 g. salt (a little more than half a teaspoon of table salt). The other ingredients are flour, water and yeast. I am not sure how to compare frozen dough to wet dough at room temperature. 300 g. of wet dough is a little less than 200 g. (1.5 cups) of flour and a letter more than 100 g. (less than half a cup) of water. That seems to be a normal ratio of salt to flour, consistent with other dough recipes.
Any of the dough recipes above would have to be adjusted to reduce sodium. for users with hypertension or salt sensitivity, or concerned to limit consumption of sodium. A pre-mixed dough, or course, cannot be adjusted. A pizza made from scatch can be heathier than a frozen, pre-made pizza, or pizza made with pre-mixed dough.
Frozen pizza is a dressed pizza on a partially baked crust. It is kept frozen and is baked in an oven in about 15-20 minutes in a 400-425 degree (F) oven to finish the crust and heat the pizza to serving temperature. Frozen pizzas are easily heated and baked. They are not healthier than other pizzas. A short survey of some 10 inch (25 cm.) frozen pizzas in the freezer cases of local grocery stores follows. For some of these pizzas, the calories, sodium and other food facts label ingredients are stated for a 1/4 pizza serving. The numbers here are for the whole pizza. The processed frozen pizzas are not more salty than some pizza dough recipes, but that is not saying much. I include the % of USDA RDA (which is 2,300 mg.):
Brand
Line
Style
Crust
Topping
Specialty
Mass
Calories
Sodium
Dr. Oetker
Ristorante
Thin Crust
plain
Margherita
330 g.
840
1260 mg., 55% RDA
Dr. Oetker
Ristorante
Thin Crust
plain
Spinach
390 g.
910
1420 mg., 62% RDA
Dr. Oetker
Ristorante
Thin Crust
plain
Vegetable
385 g.
760
1560 mg., 64% RDA
Dr. Oetker
Good Baker Feel-Good
Multigrain Stonebaked
Spinach & Pumpkin Seeds
Vegan
350 g.
720 g.
1340 mg., 58% RDA
Much of the sodium found in the industrially processed frozen pizza is in the dough. On industrially processed frozen pizza, the processed cheese is abundant, and salty. They contain wheat flour unless the product is a gluten free fake pizza. There is soy bean oil, and there are mystery additives. These products are convenient, but not particularly tasty.
Zambri’s, a restaurant in Victoria sells a proprietary “Pantry” line of frozen restaurant dishes, including pizza. The pizzas are not labelled with retail nutrition/food facts labels. The pizza are larger, thicker and heavier than those above – about 580-600 g.
Some stores have Pillsbury pizza dough in a tube. The ingredient lists indicate that the dough has been mixed to bake to some thing like a frozen pizza. The oil is soy oil, and there are mystery additives.
